Ellen: September 30

What a night!  Something upset the dogs at 1:00 a.m.  Something upset the cows at 2:00.  The dogs were barking again at 3:00.  Plus it was hot - it didn't cool down until around 5:00.  Very long night...

 

But an extremely blessed morning!  At 9:30 the Sisters of Charity Land Cruiser left Rumbek Central with Sister Maria Larissa, Sister Rose, Sister Barbara, a driver, interpreter, and me.  Thirty minutes later after a very bumpy ride, we drove into the Leper colony compound.  The first few minutes were spent with the children, who sang and charmed us as children do.

 

The adults had assembled in another area and were also singing.  "Shibak" is the generic Dinka greeting and the only Dinka word I know, but it drew smiles from men, women, and children.  I have attached photos of hands disfigured by Leprosy.  This was my third visit to this Leper colony, and any problems I might think I have quickly disappear as I observe the challenges these people deal with every day.  It's easy to understand why people with Leprosy in Bible times were forced to live apart and cry out,  "Unclean!  Unclean!''  The physical toll this disease takes on bodies is a terrible thing to see.

 

Sister Barbara led the adults through a series of exercises designed to combat at trauma, which they enjoyed to the limit.  So much laughter - it was fun to observe and participate.  We closed by laying hands on each head and anointing the hands with oil.  It was a very spiritual, very moving time, and the sisters accepted me as one of their own, allowing me to minister with them.

 

A friend in Virginia Beach provided $500 for supplies, and each individual or family left with a sack of posho - something like corn meal.  Thank you, Jean, for your generosity!  You can't imagine what a difference it will make!

 

I experienced my first Rosary on the road to the Leper colony.  There has been recent violence on this road, and Justin flatly refused to go.  However, the Sisters go every day and have never had any problem, so I decided to cast my lot with them.  They prayed the entire way:

 

"Hail Mary, full of grace, the Lord is with you.

Blessed are you among women and blessed is the fruit of your womb, Jesus."

 

Over and over and over again - calming, soothing.  I know nothing about Catholicism, but it didn't take long to commit the words to memory.

 

After lunch Justin drove Sister Barbara and me to the Loreto school to tour new buildings and talk with available staff.  Loreto, sponsored by Irish Catholics, is the gold standard secondary school in South Sudan.  We hope to emulate facility and academic success in coming years.

 

Blessings!

Ellen

 

Children at the Leper colony

This man is blind

Hands disfigured

Disfigured hand

Dancing

With one of the children

Posho

Handing out bags of posho

Ellen: Meetings

Normally, meals at Pan Dor are served indoors in the dining hall, but when a conference is going on, we have the luxury of eating outside under the circular covered open-air "gazebo," which is the case today.  I had the place all to myself shortly after 6:30 this morning, and enjoyed simple breakfast fare in solitude - cool breeze, birds chirping, roosters crowing.  Not a bad way to start the day, which was extremely busy!

 

We started with a 9:00 a.m. meeting with Minister of Agriculture, Philip Job.  The $3,000 amount Baylake provided to complete the Patient Shelter was accepted by the contractor and the money given to Mr. Job to deliver.

 

From there we drove to Rumbek U. for a brief meeting with Marco Marjon in the Education Department.  Nine RU students did their student teaching at Abukloi recently.  It is hoped that as Abukloi expands, RU students will be hired.  Marco and I were simply solidifying the relationship between RU and Abukloi, which we agree is mutually beneficial.

 

Philip Job arranged for Justin and me to meet his replacement at Relief and Rehabilitation Commission - RR &C - Maker Makur, Angelo's cousin.  Nice man - about twice as tall as I am.  So is Marco Marjon, by the way.

 

Justin and I confiscated a table and chairs and sat outside the Catholic diocese building where we could work on some computer business.

 

Lunch was a little late because of the conference - twice as many people needing to be fed in two locations.  No time for a nap.

 

For some time the Abukloi board has wanted to foster interviews of students - human interest stories - for raising awareness of situations and needs with regard to Abukloi.  Four students have been selected for interviews - two males and two females.  I met with the first one this afternoon.

 

Gabriel Wade  - 18 - is in his first year of secondary school.  I won't go into details here except to say that he walks an hour to school - an hour back - and eats one meal a day in the evening.  One thing he likes about the Abukloi school is that he can check out books to bring home and read - and there are precious few of them.  Physics and math are his favorite subjects, and he dreams of being an engineer - a seemingly impossible dream for someone in his circumstances, but "A man's reach should exceed his grasp, or what's a heaven for?"

 

Blessings!

Ellen

Transfer of $3,000 in Baylake funds for completion of Patient shelter to Minister of Agriculture Philip Job

Marco Marjon at Rumbek University

Front part of Rumbek University

Gabriel Wade in front of his tukel

Gabriel Wade and the bed he shares with two others

Maker Makur - Director of RR & C

Ellen: Big Announcement

The night was quiet and cool - no barking dogs - a couple of gunshots...Back to peanut butter, bread, and jam for breakfast.  What I wouldn't give for an egg, but there are none in the market.  Chickens are running around loose, and I see people walking down the road holding dead chickens upside down by the feet.  There's got to be some way to get an egg!

 

Justin and I drove two miles out of town this morning to meet with new Minister of Agriculture, Philip Job, who used to be in charge of Relief and Rehabilitation efforts, which included the hospital.  We worked together implementing the various stages of the Baylake Patient Shelter, and I wanted his guidance in completing the project.  I don't know his replacement, and $3,000 is a lot of money to turn over to someone I don't know.  With Philip Job's assistance, the Baylake Patient Shelter should be completed by the time I leave next week. 

 

Since he is the new Minister of Agriculture, I mentioned that the new Abukloi Secondary School now has an agriculture project, and the students were in the process of harvesting the first money crop.  He was not aware of this news but extremely glad to get it - so much so that he immediately made plans to come to Abukloi on Friday with the Minister of Education, to tour the project and "encourage the students." 

 

You can't imagine what a big deal this is!  I don't even know what to compare it to.  Justin is making plans to invite radio and TV to attend for coverage.  When Justin and I arrived at the school, all 167 students, along with teachers, were assembled en masse in front of the school for the announcement - in the blazing sun - so I was brief.  All are pleased and excited.  Grass needs to be cut with the few slashers we have, everything made neat and in order, and everyone in uniform.  Justin and I will be stopping by every day to monitor progress.

 

In late afternoon I walked the short distance to Sisters of Charity to check with Sister Maria Larissa on a detail regarding the trip to the Leper Colony on Wednesday morning.  As I prepared to leave, I was presented with a bag of limes and guavas from the Sisters of Charity gardens.  Limes I know - guavas I had heard of - but this was my first experience eating one.  About the size of a large orange and light green, I learned how to prepare guava for consumption under Mary's watchful tutelage. Cut in half, then quarter, remove seeds, and peel.  By that time, there's not much left to eat, and I would be hard-pressed to describe texture and taste.  Only slightly sweet, sort of like biting into a not-very-crisp apple - might be an acquired taste.

 

There was a breeze today, and as long as I was in the shade I was comfortable; but the direct African sun is brutal!

 

Blessings!

Ellen

Ellen: Sunday

Hot night - dogs barking at 2:00 a.m. - not much sleep.  Mandazi right off the fire for breakfast with Uganda tea and a heaping spoon of g-nut butter.  I'll need some protein.  By 7:45 drums were beating all around calling the faithful to worship.

 

Justin and I attended the 8:30 service at ECS - Episcopal Church of Sudan.  All familiar hymn tunes - I knew each one.  "How Great Thou Art" is one I remember - also "Swing Low, Sweet Chariot."  It's been years! The service was in English - no interpreter.

 

After church Justin and I went our separate ways.  I'll see him tomorrow unless something unexpected comes up.

 

I think I have cracked the Internet code.  When I was here in July, I got permission to use Internet at the Catholic diocese.  With the code for that office still in my computer, I decided to see if I could connect in the courtyard of the building and - Viola!  It worked!  There's a tree stump just the right height for my table.  I brought a stool from my room and was in business.  For two hours I worked and pretty much caught up - relief!

 

Stewed okra and eggplant for lunch - not bad - different - in addition to beans & rice, posho and beef.

 

When I was at Pan Dor last year, two young people were staying here getting ready to go to the Loreto school to volunteer for three years in various capacities.  Several times over the past year I communicated via e-mail with one of them, Ben Sprunger, and this afternoon he dropped by for a visit.  He looks good - seems to be thriving.  Justin and I will visit Loreto Wednesday afternoon.

 

There was so much activity yesterday when I was at "Sign of Hope," that it was impossible to talk, so Katarina suggested I come back at 4:30 this afternoon for "tea," which I did.  We sat on her screened in porch, which she refers to as the "veranda," and caught up on the past year;  then joined Sister Barbara Paleczay, relaxing under a big shade tree.  Photos are attached.  Katarina has the dark hair.

 

Sister Barbara has invited me to attend her trauma workshop on the week-end.  I don't think I can give up two days, but appreciated the offer.

 

Spectacular sunset this evening and equally spectacular full moon.  It's been a good day - not too hot, pleasantly cool in the evening.

 

Blessings!

Ellen

Katarina and Barbara

Barbara and me
Mary with Baylake scarves

My outdoor computer desk

Bananas growing right outside my room

Ellen: Reaping the Harvest

Pretty good sleep - nice and cool - I was under a blanket all night.  Breakfast offering was slices of white bread, peanut butter, jam, coffee and tea.  I made a sandwich and sat down to eat, when Mary brought a plate with two large "pancakes," and sat it in front of me.  They were rolled up like crepes, thin and crisp around the edges.  Unrolled each would have been the size of a dinner plate.  This was a no-brainer.  I put the sandwich aside and enjoyed the pancakes. 

 

Justin arrived at 9:00 as promised, and we headed for the market.  I needed clothespins and a wash cloth, neither of which Pan Dor provides.  Purchases made, we drove to the school, picking up a student along the way, who made quick work of my breakfast sandwich.  Even though it was Saturday ,students had gathered to start the long awaited g-nut harvest.  Two teachers were there to supervise. They also showed me the vegetable garden.  An okra harvest had yielded 40 South Sudanese pounds, and the next harvest was close.  Pumpkins were maturing.  Twelve had already been picked, each one selling for 10 pounds. Kale, tomatoes, and eggplant are doing well.

 

I am so pleased with the efforts of these students and teachers.  They are begging for more land to cultivate.  We have it, but it's got to be fenced, and that's a prohibitively expensive proposition for us right now. 

 

It was a short drive over to Hill View hotel and compound.  Justin has permission to use Internet there, but that permission doesn't apply to friends and associates.  However, there is no rule against someone like me using Justin's computer, which I did.  After a frustrating 1 1/2 hours, I was up and running - didn't do as much as I had planned, but Justin had been patient, and I want to stay in his good good graces. 

 

After lunch and nap, I walked the short distance to the Sisters of Charity Pan Gnath just next door, where I was welcomed by Sister Larissa.  As it stands now, I will go with her and some other Sisters to the Leper Colony on Wednesday morning.

 

I continued my walk to the Sign of Hope medical compound where Katarina, also a Catholic nun, has worked for years.  She was winding up a workshop with community leaders - at least 75 men and women - on mitigating trauma - led by Sister Barbara Paleczay, who works through Solidarity with South Sudan.  Barbara used a lot of the same methods taught by Dr. Richard Brown when we were in Juba and Northern Bahr el Ghazal in late June and early July.  I have no background in mental health, but lately find myself thrown with people who do - interesting...

 

Tonight as Mary was putting dinner on the serving table, she said to me,  "We are surviving."  She regrets the lack of variety in meals, but says there is no food in the market, and the road between Juba and Rumbek has been closed due to fighting.  Beans and rice, posho, and whatever vegetables she can get from local farmers is the best she can do.  Tonight, in addition to beans and rice, there was chipati - always a winner - and a delicious vegetable stew with potatoes, peas, onions, and squash.  Mary will hear no complaints from me.

 

And finally at 8:00 p.m., I connected with Father John Mathiang, who I had been trying to track down all afternoon.  After getting the message that I wanted to see him, he drove to Pan Dor, even though it was late.  I needed to give him $500 for supplies for the Leper Colony, donated by a friend in Virginia Beach.  He said these items would be purchased and ready for delivery by the sisters and me on Wednesday morning.  Thanks be to God!

 

Blessings!

Ellen

 

Ellen: UN Flight to Rumbek

I took a walk around the compound from 5:00 - 5:30 this morning, enjoying the breeze and early cool - and disturbing a couple of guards asleep in tucked away places on the grounds.  Let's see - "guard" denotes protective presence.  Hummmmm....

 

Angelo arrived promptly at 6:00 a.m.   We were in line - some semblance of a line anyway - at the airport by 6:30.  The crowd began to gather, and it was difficult to hold my place with all the pushing and shoving.  Some crowd control measures would be so helpful.

 

Bags weighted and checked, Angelo and I, thankfully, headed to VIP.  The most adorable little girl - all dolled up in a frilly white dress, lacy socks, and white patent leather shoes with rhinestones on the bows, was sitting with her mother across from me.  I tried to be friendly with the child, but she took one loo at me and screamed - screamed bloody murder, as we used to say - and hid her face against her mother.  Obviously I was the first kawaja she had ever seen.  I've had this experience before in the Bush.  Some children are terrified of people with white skin;  others are fascinated and can't stop staring - like Tomba's students earlier in the week.

 

The UN Humanitarian Air Support/World Food Program flight was on time - amazing!  This must be on-time day - and it's about time, no pun intended.  It's hard to tell where UMHAS ends and WFP begins.  UMHAS provides critical transportation for humanitarian workers and light cargo, in addition to facilitating medical and security evacuations and relocations.  WFP operates UNHAS on behalf of the humanitarian community, using contracted services to support and enable emergency interventions in countries where safe and reliable services are not available for UN agencies and international and local NGOs. 

 

The last two words of this paragraph, admittedly copied from a flyer in the seat back in front of me, explain how I qualify for these flights.  I support a local NGO - non-governmental organization - as well as provide other humanitarian support services.  That's why I'm here for the next two weeks. 

 

For the past three years, I have served as president of "Abukloi," an NGO, which, in the local Dinka dialect means "We Can!"  Abukloi sponsors a secondary school that currently has 176 students and 6 teachers.  We have just started an agriculture project, and it should be about time to harvest the first money crop - peanuts or g-nuts (ground nuts).

 

I am settled in at Pan Door, the Catholic Compound, and have had lunch - posho, rice, beans, greens, and beef liver.  Having had breakfast, anything would have tasted good and this was fine.

 

Justin, the Abukloi in-country director came at 2:00 and we met for an hour.  There is a schedule for a week, at least.  One of the things he mentioned was that the g-nuts had not been harvested, because the ground is so hard - we need rain.  It hadn't rained in two weeks.  Clouds were gathering while we talked, and providentially, by 3:30 the rain came.  Wind gusts blew dirt and dust.  From all over the compound I heard Bam!  Bam! as debris came down on metal roof tops.  I sat at my open door, watched, and smiled.  As badly as I wanted to check e-mail, we needed this rain to get the g-nuts out of the ground - and there's nothing like the sound of rain on a metal roof. 

 

For five hours the rain came down - slow and gentle.  I believe the g-nut harvest will begin tomorrow!

 

Blessings!

Ellen

Ellen: Terekeka to Juba

From Ellen Wicker Cummings:

I slept reasonably well - awoke at 3- up at 4- dressed, packed, everything in order by 6 and able to attend morning worship with the children.  Abuna asked me to speak to them again, which I choked through.  Why do I do this?!  I'll be back in a month.  You'd think I was leaving never to return!

Harriett - pronounced here "Hahrriett," sent me away fortified with omelet, mandazi, African tea - sweet girl!  Loki, new director Samay, teacher Susan, and I left the orphanage shortly after 8, arriving at the taxi park just before 8:30.  No passengers.  A taxi will not go without a full load, so I was in for a wait.  Susan wasn't feeling well, so we dropped her off to see a doctor and tried to find rice.  All proprietors - obviously Arabic, were at morning prayers, so back we went to the taxi park.

A few passengers were gathering and Loki began the process of getting my ticket.  The driver wanted 140 South Sudanese pounds to take me from Terekeka to the Juba taxi park, then another 100 pounds to go from the taxi park to the hotel.- just a couple of miles.  Did this fellow think Loki just fell off the turnip truck yesterday?!!  There was no way he was going to agree to this arrangement.  An intense discussion followed before a total of 200 pounds was finally agreed upon - still too much, but what are you gonna do?

By 10 we were under way - every seat filled.  The road was rough, but graders were at work so the ride should be smoother and take less time pretty soon - until the next rainy season when the process will start all over again.  Can't we just pave these roads and be done with it?!

The cows were really on the move today.  I lost count of the different cattle camps crossing the road, that we had to wade through.  When we were in the middle of the first one - hundreds of cows - I asked if I could take a picture and was told to do it in secret.  That was going to be difficult.  Finally someone said,  "Take it now!" - so I did.  That photo is attached.  I remember a couple of years ago, stopping to take a picture of a large cattle camp, when suddenly a tribesman rushed toward us, spear in hand, and demanded money.  These guys are obviously testy about pictures and the folks advising me knew that.

The radio volume was much too loud, but I wasn't about to complain with a full load of South Sudanese on board - although the driving beat was about to drive me out of my skin.  Then another radio started playing from the back.  At first I wondered if I was hearing two tracks of the same tape, but no - there were definitely dueling radios going on.  Surely some rule of etiquette was being violated here!

The upside is this vehicle - a new van - was comfortable and air-conditioned.  We didn't have to deal with road dust, as is usually the case.

I am checked into AFEX - the same container as before.  I had a nice dinner at the restaurant by the Nile.  This outdoor eating area is the only place I know of where diners can enjoy a meal in full view of naked men bathing in the river.  A lot of NGO staff members are quartered at AFEX, because it's nice and very secure. Tonight tables right at the edge of the river bank were filled with kawajas - white skin - gathered for happy hour.

I enjoyed vegetable spring rolls, a small salad, with a glass of white wine, and apple strudel for dessert.  It was a welcome respite after beans and rice - and I'm not complaining about the food at Terekeka.  I don't want to live like an ex pat in this country, but a change every now and then is appreciated. 

I'm settled in for the night.  Angelo is supposed to pick me up at 6:10 tomorrow morning for 7am check in for my UN flight to Rumbek.  Internet is tough in Rumbek right now.  I hope to use the Catholic diocese again - we'll see.

Blessings!

Ellen

Ellen: Returning to Rumbek

On September 13, 2015, Abukloi President Ellen Wicker Cummings returned to South Sudan for an 8 week tour. Upon arriving in Juba, she immediately went to Harvesters Orphanage in Terekeka along the Nile where she worked on reading and math skills with the young children.

Tomorrow, she returns to Rumbek to spend time at Abukloi School. Here is her first update with some photos from Terekeka:

It was a pleasant day for my last walk to the school - last day in my outdoor classroom.  Some cloud cover, a cool breeze - nice weather conditions for anywhere in the world, but especially in South Sudan. 

I leave for Juba tomorrow and an overnight at AFEX before flight to Rumbek on Friday.  I had planned to stay another day here in Terekeka, but very recently the Juba airport has ceased operating on Saturdays, causing all sorts of difficulties for travelers like me who normally fly on week-ends.

Conditions in Rumbek are not the best right now, and I have been advised by friends to be extremely cautious.  My prayer partners see no red flags - there appears to be a definite green light for me to go.  That said, prayers are greatly appreciated for the next two weeks, in particular, that conditions will be calm, because I have a lot of running around I need to do.  I have been in touch with several NGO friends in Rumbek, who indicate that things are relatively stable, and I should have no problems.

I spent the afternoon packing and putting finishing touches on my message for 4:00 chapel.  Loki kindly took photos, which are attached.  I took kids across the road for brooms, enjoyed potato salad, bean soup, mandazi, and African tea for dinner.  I've said my good-byes and am in for the night.  I'll check in tomorrow from Juba.

Blessings!

Ellen