Ellen: Terekeka to Juba

From Ellen Wicker Cummings:

I slept reasonably well - awoke at 3- up at 4- dressed, packed, everything in order by 6 and able to attend morning worship with the children.  Abuna asked me to speak to them again, which I choked through.  Why do I do this?!  I'll be back in a month.  You'd think I was leaving never to return!

Harriett - pronounced here "Hahrriett," sent me away fortified with omelet, mandazi, African tea - sweet girl!  Loki, new director Samay, teacher Susan, and I left the orphanage shortly after 8, arriving at the taxi park just before 8:30.  No passengers.  A taxi will not go without a full load, so I was in for a wait.  Susan wasn't feeling well, so we dropped her off to see a doctor and tried to find rice.  All proprietors - obviously Arabic, were at morning prayers, so back we went to the taxi park.

A few passengers were gathering and Loki began the process of getting my ticket.  The driver wanted 140 South Sudanese pounds to take me from Terekeka to the Juba taxi park, then another 100 pounds to go from the taxi park to the hotel.- just a couple of miles.  Did this fellow think Loki just fell off the turnip truck yesterday?!!  There was no way he was going to agree to this arrangement.  An intense discussion followed before a total of 200 pounds was finally agreed upon - still too much, but what are you gonna do?

By 10 we were under way - every seat filled.  The road was rough, but graders were at work so the ride should be smoother and take less time pretty soon - until the next rainy season when the process will start all over again.  Can't we just pave these roads and be done with it?!

The cows were really on the move today.  I lost count of the different cattle camps crossing the road, that we had to wade through.  When we were in the middle of the first one - hundreds of cows - I asked if I could take a picture and was told to do it in secret.  That was going to be difficult.  Finally someone said,  "Take it now!" - so I did.  That photo is attached.  I remember a couple of years ago, stopping to take a picture of a large cattle camp, when suddenly a tribesman rushed toward us, spear in hand, and demanded money.  These guys are obviously testy about pictures and the folks advising me knew that.

The radio volume was much too loud, but I wasn't about to complain with a full load of South Sudanese on board - although the driving beat was about to drive me out of my skin.  Then another radio started playing from the back.  At first I wondered if I was hearing two tracks of the same tape, but no - there were definitely dueling radios going on.  Surely some rule of etiquette was being violated here!

The upside is this vehicle - a new van - was comfortable and air-conditioned.  We didn't have to deal with road dust, as is usually the case.

I am checked into AFEX - the same container as before.  I had a nice dinner at the restaurant by the Nile.  This outdoor eating area is the only place I know of where diners can enjoy a meal in full view of naked men bathing in the river.  A lot of NGO staff members are quartered at AFEX, because it's nice and very secure. Tonight tables right at the edge of the river bank were filled with kawajas - white skin - gathered for happy hour.

I enjoyed vegetable spring rolls, a small salad, with a glass of white wine, and apple strudel for dessert.  It was a welcome respite after beans and rice - and I'm not complaining about the food at Terekeka.  I don't want to live like an ex pat in this country, but a change every now and then is appreciated. 

I'm settled in for the night.  Angelo is supposed to pick me up at 6:10 tomorrow morning for 7am check in for my UN flight to Rumbek.  Internet is tough in Rumbek right now.  I hope to use the Catholic diocese again - we'll see.

Blessings!

Ellen