Ellen: Saying Goodbye to Abukloi School

I have decided that sunrise is my favorite time of the day in Rumbek, and I am chagrined that I have missed so many while lolly-gagging in my room waiting for breakfast.  And speaking of breakfast, this morning Mary served pancakes - rolled crispy crepes - and watermelon.  Mary's a great gal - extremely capable - Pan Dor is fortunate to have her.

Before going to the airport, Justin took me to school so I could meet with a couple of teachers and say good-bye to the students.  Can you see the intensity on their faces when I speak to them?  They're an exemplary group - we have high admission standards.  The only thing that will hold them back is the lack of stability and monetary support in South Sudan. And yet South Sudan desperately needs the qualified, motivated students Abukloi will produce.  I don't know the answers and neither does the Board.  - so we will continue to support our students and give them every educational advantage.  What they do with it is up to them.

Because I had to leave for the airport before lunch was served, I asked Mary if she could give me something to eat before I left - anything.  Her response - "I prepare for you small omelet."  And if this was a small omelet, I'd like to see a large one.  I was served a several egg omelet with all sorts of chopped red and green vegetables - with tomato slices around the edge of the plate - perfect!  

Justin and I were at the airport the required hour before departure time. I was "wheels up" for Juba forty minutes late - not bad.

I provided a detailed explanation of UNHAS/WFP on Day #13, the only aircraft currently serving Rumbek. Normally a bare bones outfit, today there were two flight attendants who served mints prior to take off, assorted juice boxes by Delmonte - mango, guava, passion fruit - and a variety of cookies, three to a package.  What's going on?!

I'm settled in at AFEX (Africa Expedition) in Juba and just had dinner with Ellen Ratner and GEMS team - slightly different make-up than when we were here in July.  We're ready for World Mental Health Day tomorrow.  I know nothing about mental health, but am here to support my friend at her invitation.  More tomorrow.

Blessings!

Ellen

Ellen: Day #26

It missed a golden opportunity to rain yesterday afternoon.  The wind blew, dust swirled, debris landed on metal roof tops, dark clouds, thunder/lightening - for three hours - and nothing.  I was sure we would be able to get the rest of the g-nuts out of the ground today - not yet.  It did have the effect of cooling things off, however.  I was under a blanket last night.

 

I enjoyed another sunrise this morning.  Stepping out on the main road in front of Pan Dor at 6:30, not another person was in sight - nothing was moving.  I had never seen this main road so quiet.  And the sunrise!  How does one describe a sunrise?  There were a lot of scudding clouds with light filtering through in all shades of pinks and blues - the faint sliver of a new moon still visible.  Dramatic, to say the least!

 

And breakfast - in addition to bread, butter, and jam, this morning there was watermelon - the first fruit I've seen since I've been here.

 

All the stores in the market were closed today.  The soldiers/police have not been paid and are on strike.  There was concern that they would all demonstrate in the market area, Causing merchants to stay home.   Never a dull moment!

 

I finally got a boda boda ride today - just paid a driver ten pounds to take me to Freedom Square and back.  All Abukloi transportation used to be by boad boda, and I loved it!  We have now graduated to a car - a good thing in a lot of ways - but I sure do miss the feeling of freedom I enjoyed on that boda boda - wind in my face, blowing my hair.  Those were the good ole days!

 

For the benefit of the Board, Justin and I met briefly this morning with two members of the Community Committee:  Abrahim Chol and Madhek. There are seven members, but because of the potential for trouble in the market, most stayed home.  I didn't blame them.

 

This must have been "move the cows day"  Herds were up and down the main thoroughfare outside Pan Dor - coming and going from all directions - cows, cars, boda bodas, and people all traversing the same space.

 

I've attached a photo of Abukloi student, Daniel Chol, 23, on the left, and four friends, who stay together in one small room.  All are orphans, and they have become each other's family. Daniel's parents died when he was a child.  He is the youngest of six children.  An uncle provides this tukel along with food for Daniel and his friends.  He plans to finish secondary school, go to university, and study law.

 

Tomorrow I leave for Juba, and will check in from AFEX.

 

Blessings!

Ellen

 

Community Committee members - Abrahim on the left

Boda boda ride

 Cattle moving

 Daniel Chol and friends

 Daniel in front of his tukel

My new computer desk - people are now joining me!

Ellen: Gingham!

I saw the sunrise this morning.  I'm not usually out that early, and when it's already hot at 6:30, you know you're in for it!

 

Justin and I met with the Head Teacher for about an hour this morning, then spent a short 30 minutes with the other teachers.  More time was needed, so they came to Pan Dor at 2:30, and we enjoyed cold sodas while we talked.

 

On an afternoon walk a few days ago, I discovered the Bishop Ceasar Mazzolari Kindergarten, closed at the time I was there.  I had an extra hour mid-day, and walked over to see what I could find out.  Almost 300 children, ages 3-9, attend classes from 8:00 - 1:00 week-days.  All 300 tried to touch the Kawaja - I was mobbed!

 

Sister Coletta appeared to be in charge and took me on a short tour.  Seven teachers are responsible for these 300 children.  The school was started in 2011 by the Bishop for whom the school was named.  Parts of the structure are still under construction.  Uniforms are pink, purple, green and brown Gingham.  Why am I not surprised?!  Photos are attached.  Sister Coletta is the smiling nun at the back of a group of children in the 3rd photo.

 

Not a big news day here - hope all is well.

 

Blessings!

Ellen

Ellen: Priorities

First of all, I have declared war on roaches.  The big ugly things are here in droves just like they are all over the world.  I suppose two rains since I arrived brought them indoors.  Last night I asked for roach spray but waited until this morning so the shower area could dry completely and so I wouldn't have to breathe the fumes. Before leaving for breakfast, I started doing battle, beginning with the bathroom and continuing around the perimeter of the large room.  Roaches came from every direction, and I stepped on them as they tried to escape - showed no mercy.  Maids cleaned and I'll spray again before dinner.  I should feel more easy tonight than in the past few days.

This morning Justin and I met with the Abukloi student leaders.  There are 22 of them, holding various positions from head boy/girl, to prefects, to class monitors, to deputies, to various chair persons.  They have concerns and requests - all of them understandable and perhaps even reasonable.  What they don't understand is the financial cost of everything they want/need.  More textbooks, more teachers, science lab, computer lab - priorities, I would say.  Then there are 1) a room large enough for the entire school to assemble, 2) playground, 3) sports uniforms and equipment.

At one point I interrupted - "Let me ask you this.  Would you rather have a science lab or sports uniforms?"  Silence.  Prioritizing needs and wants is something we're all going to have to work on.

Next stop - the Baylake Patient Shelter at the government hospital complex.  After handing over $3,000 for completion of the floor on last Tuesday, I wanted to check on the progress.  As you can see from the attached photo, the work has been finished.  It will be several more days before the patients can be moved back, but the work has been completed.  Congratulations Baylake - and thank you!

Then the tough part.  I went to the other side of the shelter where patients were being treated. This is what always gets me - even more so than the leprosy patients, who, while disfigured, no longer have active disease and are so joyful.  These patients are sick and miserable.  Pleading eyes - it just tears my heart out.  One lady put her hand on her head and closed her eyes - pain.  I asked if she had Malaria - yes.  I placed my hands on her head and prayed for rapid recovery - spent some time with each patient.

According to Justin, there was an outbreak of malaria recently.  Several tents have been put up to accommodate the sick, and there are still patients lying on mats on the ground.  "Oh Lord, what can I do?  I'm just one person."  "Tell the story,' He said, and so I do.

The fifth student interview was with Zachariah Juma, age 21, in his second year at Abukloi.  He is the first born of five children - three brothers and one sister, who live together in the same compound with parents, grandparents, and two friends.  There is a garden on the premises with pumpkins, okra, sorghum, guavas and mangoes.  The father raises cows and is at the cattle camp most of the time. 

Zachariah is a straight A student and holds the position of Time Manager at Abukloi - he rings the bell when it's time to change classes.  Favorite subjects are chemistry and biology, and he aspires to be a doctor.

Zachariah attends Saint Barnabas ECS, where he sings in the choir.  He and his brother sang for me in Dinka what would in English be:

Praise Him!  Praise Him!  Praise Him in the morning, Praise Him in the noon time!  Praise Him!  Praise Him!  Praise Him when the sun goes down!"

Zacharia expressed appreciation to Abukloi for helping bring South Sudan into the new world.

I just saw two nuns walk into the Pan Dor compound wearing - you guessed it - blue Gingham!

Blessings!

Ellen

 Student leaders meeting

 New Baylake Shelter floor

 Patients

 Patient 

 Patient

 Tent at hospital

Interview with Zacharia Juma at his family compound

Ellen: Sunday

Church was a morning-long affair.  Justin and I attended the Anglican service, which was supposed to start at 9:00 a.m.  We were met and welcomed by Peter, one of the Priests and an Abukloi student, who ushered us to the front of the worship space, as is the tradition with guests.  As 9:00 approached, we were advised that the service would be somewhat delayed, as another guest was coming, an Evangelist from Egypt.  The leadership did their best to fill the time, and every so often someone would come to report that the visitor was getting closer.

 

There was enthusiastic singing and whooping, exhortations from various male and female leaders - young and old, drums of all sizes, dances.  A lot of colorful pomp and circumstance - different children's groups dressed in green, gold, purple/blue, and red.  The minor Priests wore long purple robes, the main priest adorned in red and gold regalia.  The procession from the rear of this outdoor worship space was impressive, as female celebrants circled the altar area followed by the Priest - or is he a Bishop?  I don't know the correct terms, and this isn't Justin's church.

Everyone was good natured as we waited.  Finally at 9:45 the Evangelist arrived - short and rotund - by the name of Mourice.  I'm sorry there was no one to interpret for me, as it was obvious this man is a gifted messenger of the gospel.  For 45 minutes he held forth, frequently eliciting applause and "Amens" from the 1,000 plus worshippers in attendance. 

 

We were able to speak only briefly - he was swarmed with people after the service - but was able to tell me he makes frequent trips to Nashville - wonder why?

 

When the message was over, offering was taken.  No passing of the plate here - everyone walked to the front with their tithes and gifts, placing them in an ornate receptacle - and after sitting such a long time, we all needed to move around.  Offerings taken, Peter introduced all guests, and there were several of us - and everyone had to speak.   

 

Finally it was the Pastor's turn - or whatever we should call him.  Thirty minutes later we were done.  Lots of visiting/hand shaking followed.  I got back to Pan Dor at 12:30, four hours after leaving. 

 

I wish the pictures were better.  Shafts of sunlight filter through trees and sheltered areas, so parts of the same photo are dark and over-exposed.  And I don't like to be obtrusive when taking photos during a service.  I would like to have gotten closer shots but was reluctant to move around any more than I was already doing.  Maybe my friend, Carin Gregory, can work some magic.

 

There was no plan for the afternoon.  I considered attending the past few hours of Sister Barbara's workshop, but decided to take some time to rest instead.  And it looked like it might rain. 

 

There is a trial Skype with Baylake in a bit, in anticipation of Missions Bazaar coming up.  Hope it works!

 

Blessings!

Ellen

Ellen: Lessons Learned

Saturday morning and everybody was sleeping  but me.  I was up at 6:30, as usual, and in the dining hall by 7:00.  There is a window between the cooking and eating areas where food, plates, cups, cutlery, etc., are placed.  When everything is ready, one of the cooks will walk around and transfer from window to serving table.  As a courtesy, female guests will sometimes help with the transfer so the cooks won't have to walk those extra steps.

 

This morning I moved rolls, g-nut butter, jam, tea, coffee, plates, etc., prepared by tea, then inquired about my egg.  "It is coming," Mary assured me.  Pretty soon she brought me two boiled eggs.  I had just supplied one - hummm...It turns out, as of two days ago, eggs can now be purchased in the market, so everybody had a boiled egg today.  I, however, had two, and because I had the dining hall to myself, nobody was the wiser.

 

There was some excitement in the compound late yesterday afternoon.  At almost 6:15 I was getting ready to take a walk, when I became aware of loud agitated voices and people rushing around.  A group of men who reside here were gathered with cooks, cleaners, and Mary, just across from the Catholic office building.  I knew there was great consternation, but couldn't understand anything that was being spoken, so I continued my way to the gate - which was locked.  Nobody was going in or out.

 

Mary explained to me that the local driver of the Land Cruiser owned by the World Bank, had had too much to drink and smashed the windshield of the vehicle.  To keep him from coming back and doing any more damage, the gate was locked.  There are raised walkways throughout the compound, so I walked within the confines of secure walls and gate.  As long as I can walk, I really don't care where.

 

There was a student interview scheduled for 10:00 this morning, but she didn't show up.  With several free hours, I decided to attend Sister Barbara's Trauma workshop.  Almost 100 women were gathered at Sign of Hope - the vast majority Catholic women who serve the communities in various capacities.  At the beginning of her sessions, Sister Barbara always asks if anyone has a headache, stomach pain, discomfort anywhere - and there is always a show of hands. 

 

After several hours, she asks if anyone still has pain, and usually it's all gone - greatly reduced, at any rate.  Her thesis, and that of an increasing number of health professionals, is that a lot of our physical discomfort is stress or tension related.  Rather than take Advil, first try some of these stress-relieving exercises.

 

One of the things I have neglected to mention is the love affair the women of Rumbek have with Gingham.  I have never seen so much Gingham in one place in my life!  The cooks and cleaners at Pan Dor were green Gingham aprons over red or blue Gingham dresses.  The Sisters is Charity wear green Gingham aprons over their white habits.  The women who attended the workshop today could be distinguished as to the parish they represented by the color Gingham dress they wore.  Who knew?! - that Gingham could be such an important fabric in this part of the world.

 

I was a little concerned about the student interview this afternoon, because the young woman, Sarah Akoi, is almost painfully shy - extremely quiet.  The teachers had no idea she was as bright as she is until getting the results of written tests and homework - because she never talks.  However, this was an exceptional interview, because the home environment is so exceptional.  There is a strong nuclear family.  Sarah (Sahrah - trill the R) is the oldest of nine children who live together with both parents in a two room stone house with dirt floor.  The mother takes care of the house and children.  The father raises cattle and farms - mostly g-nuts, maize, and sorghum. 

 

Both parents want Sarah to succeed and encourage her efforts - highly unusual from the stand point of the father in this male dominated society.

 

I am aware of the severe weather conditions on the East Coast and hope my family members and friends are okay.

 

Blessings!

Ellen

Trauma workshop - Gingham dress front and center
Trying to pronounce this lady's name

Sarah with her mother and 7 siblings

Inside Sarah's home

The two room home where 11 family members live together

Pan Dor cook wearing Gingham

Another gingham wearer

Ellen: VIPs Tour School

We had breakfast cake this morning - sort of like pound cake - dense and heavy, slightly sweet - perfect with a cup of tea and spoonful of peanut butter.

 

And my love/hate relationship with this country continues.  When Justin picked me up shortly after 9:00 this morning, he had just gotten off the phone with Minister of Agriculture, Philip Job, who had suddenly been called to Rumbek East.  He sent his regrets, but said that three representatives from his office would be coming in his place - a disappointment, but ok. 

 

We had already learned that the Minister of Education had been taken ill and was sending his assistant.  And, by the way, the assistant needed a ride, so Justin drove away to collect this guest, returning at 10:30 with the Director General of the Ministry of Education and a young woman who worked for the radio station.  TV wasn't going to happen - sorry.

 

The festivities were scheduled to begin at 10:00 so 30 minutes late wasn't bad.  Then the Ministry of Agriculture contingent called to say they would also need a ride.  This round trip journey was going to take at least an hour.  My American patience was being sorely tried, but there was nothing to do but sit back and wait - and actually the time passed reasonably quickly.  We found plenty to talk about, and it turned into a pleasant interlude.

 

Around 11:30, Justin returned with three dignitaries from the Ministry of Agriculture.  These four VIPs from ED and AG, along with the head teacher, two agriculture teachers, radio host and yours truly, set out to tour the grounds.  The younger of the four visitors was intent on impressing everyone with how much he knew and our small project was well received and complimented.

 

Now it was time to address the students, assembled in the bright sun.  The head teacher encouraged brevity due to the heat of the day, but persons in positions of importance love to hear themselves talk.  For thirty minutes the students endured sun, heat and speeches. 

 

All that to say this was a successful morning.  The students were praised for their efforts and encouraged to continue.  The Ministry of Agriculture sent a vehicle to collect those employees, and Justin was able to fit the rest of us in his car.  So - as a former pastor of mine is fond of saying,  "We declared success and moved on!"

 

The third student interview was with 18-year-old Barnabas Ater, in his second year at Abukloi.  Barnabas is, in essence, an orphan.  His father died of cancer six years ago.  His mother remarried and moved to Aweil.  He never hears from her.  There's an older sister 30 miles away, which might as well be 200.  He lives with two friends his age in a small tukel provided by the older brother of one of these friends. 

 

With no encouragement from anyone - just his own motivation to succeed - Barnabas is a top student in his class.  After completing secondary school, he would like to attend university and study engineering. 

 

And I finally have an egg!  After leaving Barnabas in his community of Akuac, Justin drove to a series of tukels where chickens were in abundance.  One egg had been found so far today, and I bought it for 5 South Sudanese pounds.   There'll be a boiled egg for breakfast tomorrow - Yippee!

 

Blessings!

Ellen

Ellen: Day #19

Cool night - slept well!  Justin and I spent the morning at the Abukloi school.  The students and teachers were hard at work cleaning up the grounds and removing the g-nuts from the tops of the plants - there's probably a term for this process - in anticipation of tomorrow's visit from the Minister of Agriculture and Minister of Education.  Television and two radio stations will be on hand to cover the event.  Justin and I also met with the head teacher and deputy head teacher to go over some details regarding the school - successful morning!

 

After lunch I conducted the second student interview.  Veronica Nyanbuot, 19, is in her second year at Abukloi and a top student.   She is tall, willowy, with graceful movements and fashion model good looks.  Veronica lived an idyllic life with her family in Chad where her father worked in a bank.  After he was killed in an automobile accident, things fell apart, and Veronica, her mother and younger siblings ended up in Rumbek, where life is a daily struggle.  Still Veronica has great hope, and determination to rise above her circumstances.  She aspires to be an engineer or an airline pilot. 

 

One of the Abukloi board members, Marg Kutz, who is coming in November, has wanted to teach the Abukloi girls to sew.  Today Justin and I located a women's center close by with approximately 20 sewing machines, managed by the Catholic church.  Marg is welcome to use the center when she comes.  Again, the Lord has provided!

 

It has been a rainy day - off and on - and therefore cool.  No rain tomorrow, please, for our big event!

 

Blessings!

Ellen

 

Sweeping the grounds

Working with g-nuts

Working with g-nuts

Working with g-nuts

Veronica with bed covers she embroidered herself

Veronica outside the house where she lives