A Thriving School

 Ken and Steve Tack teach business to the students.

 Marg Tack Kutz  with several students.

 Students writing to their pen pals at St. Stephen's UMC.

 Head Teacher Samuel with his family outside their home.

Students at the Thanksgiving Celebration for Abukloi School. 2000 community members and officials came to celebrate. Some of the students came dressed in their cattle camp clothes.

Nancy's Garden

 Bore hole for Nancy's Garden, a new agriculture project teaching women in the community sustainable agriculture. The garden is named after Marg and Ken's mother, Nancy Tack.

Woman clears and tills garden by hand..

Community members next to the garden plots they plowed by hand. Currently the entire garden is 2 1/2 acres.

Ended Too Soon

I should not have been so quick to end this blog as there were some blips in my return to the US.  The flight from Juba to Nairobi was late resulting in missing my flight from Nairobi to Addis Abba.  So long story short: I spent a night in Nairobi, Kenya at the expense of an airline called 540.  It was a great hotel, 5 star-type, plus 3 meals.  It added another day to my return trip but I got to see some African buffalo and a giraffe on my way to the airport in Kenya.  From Addis Abba to Washington Dulles is 17 ½ hours – a very long time in a middle seat.  

When Bob picked me up Monday morning around 8:30, I was more than tired but so glad to be home.  There was a group of about 30 young adults on the plane who had just completed 11 months in missions in about 14 different locations around the world.  They were giddy with anticipation of returning home just in time for Thanksgiving.  Just as the plane was landing at Dulles, they broke out singing the US National Anthem.  The timing was such that just as the tires hit the runway, they were singing, “land of the free, and the home of the brave.”  Everyone applauded.  There is no place like home.

Thank you all for your support and prayers.  We accomplished much and are grateful.  Stephanie Maker is due to arrive back in the US on Thanksgiving Day.  Continued prayers for her safe return.
-Marg Kutz

Beginnings of an Internet Cafe

 Kory Tack teaching computer skills.

 

 Female students excited about learning technology.

Solar panels on the building housing the new internet cafe.

School Director Justin Mathok with the new satellite dish for the internet cafe.

Flight to Juba – Friday

I arose early this morning to meet with Justin at 7:30 am and then go to the airport before 8:30.  We had a couple loose ends to tie up and got that done in short order.  Angelo’s brother rode along with us to the airport.  Those of you who may have followed my blog from previous trips may remember that getting from Rumbek back to Juba is the most challenging part of the trip due to “irregularities” in flight schedules.  But today went so very smoothly.  We were at the airport by 8:30 and had to wait quite some time but by 1:00 we were on a flight to Juba and arrived here around 2:00.  It is a new airline, the now third in South Sudan.  It has what I think is a rather unfortunate name:  South Stone.  Have you ever heard of “drops like a stone”?  Just seems to me not to be such a good name for an airline.

Anyway, Moses was there to greet us at the airport and help us navigate.  The building is being demolished.  Tents have been put up to replace the building until the new building is completed and opened – hopefully sometime in the next year or two.  This is another sign of some progress.  When the Juba airport is done the plan is to improve the Rumbek airport and make it for international flights.  That could take a whole day off a trip here!

This is likely my last blog until I arrive back in Chester, VA.  I am at Shamrock Hotel in Juba (and was enjoying a fan and AC until the generator went off).  It is a place to take a breath before I transition back to the US.  I will miss being here and feel there is so much more I could do but I am ready to go home.  Three weeks is enough.

-Marg

Last Day in Rumbek – Thursday

Tomorrow Stephanie and I fly to Juba so today is my last full day in Rumbek.  I went to the school and talked to the students and said my good-byes.  They are so appreciative and bestowed many blessings on me and the people who help support their school.  I also met with the teachers and we worked out a few more understandings.  There is such a huge learning curve – so much more to learn.  Just when I think I understand something here, I find out there is much more to know and understand.

I had hoped to do some internet, buy some panties for the female students, and watch a football game this afternoon but plans changed.  Justin is the captain of the state team and they had a big game today.  He was needed elsewhere. And then played the game starting at 4:00.  I ended up staying at Pan Door, packing and reading.  Around 5:00 Rev. Elijah, who is the chairman of the Community Development Committee, came to meet with me.  It is the CDC who is allowing us to use the school facilities for free and the group to whom we will eventually turn over responsibility of the school.  So our connection with them is critical.  We had a wonderful conversation, a really amazing man and leader.  He will work with our Director and current Head Teacher to select the next Head Teacher.  He will also work to get national funds to provide a water system and then housing for the teachers.  That isn’t likely until 2020 or later.

Stephanie returned this afternoon from her overnight stay with Helen, a family member of Angelo.  It was a good experience.  She then was beckoned to return to see the rest of the family to say her good-byes.  They have really embraced her as one of their own.  And she has opened herself to being accepted and included in this lovely but quite different family culture.

Some little gifts came to me this afternoon.  For some reason the generator was on much of the afternoon.  This meant I could stay in my room and be relatively cool due to the fan.  Mary, the woman who manages Pan Door, made both fresh vegetable salad and fresh fruit salad for dinner.  I had commented positively each time she served one of those dishes.  Knowing this was my last meal here, she made both!  This is a place full of hospitality and I will miss that.

BTW, Justin’s team won 2-0 and they received a certificate.  Go Zalan!

-Marg

Chinese Hospital

Today we visited the Women’s Hospital in Rumbek, built by the Chinese in 2013 but opened just this year.  We had nearly an hour conversation with the Director General of the Hospital and the senior Midwife.  It was fascinating and valuable information.  Before I share some of this information, let me just mention that the hospital offers nearly everything an OB-GYN hospital would in the states with a few exceptions and some of the “delivery systems” (pun intended) are different.  This Women’s Hospital operates in partnership with John Hopkins in the US.

The doctor is from Sudan, Darfur, specialized in gynecology.  The midwife was trained in Khartoum, Sudan for 3 years in the 1980’s.  She is local.  To clarify, there is TBA, traditional birth attendants, who are trained very little and often cause more harm than good because of their lack of training.  Their years of service in this region has created a trust in their ability that is not warranted.  The mid-wife we met today is not a TBA in any sense of that term.  The conversation among us was a combination on Arabic, English, and Dinka but it worked well.

South Sudan has the highest maternal mortality rate in the world.  It is often noted that a girl in South Sudan is more likely to die in child birth than complete the 8^th grade.  So I ask what are the biggest causes of this.  Medically it is eclampsia and hemorrhaging.  (BTW, there is no blood bank at the hospital due to lack of consistent power so all transfusions are fresh blood given directly.)  Culturally it is starting too young and having them too close together.  Most girls here start their menstruation cycle around age 16.  (As you probably know, it is much lower in the US and malnutrition here is the main reason for the later age.)  Now there was some difference in opinion as to the best age for women here to bear children.  The doctor (male) suggested 18.  The mid-wife (female) suggested 25 or older.  They both laughed.  However, they both agreed there should be 2-3 years between pregnancies. 

Sonja Tussing from St. Stephen’s UMC in Burke, VA has expressed interest in coming to Abukloi to teach health.  The doctor and mid-wife gave clear information in how that should happen.  Because the men here have control over their wives (the doctor said women are “property” rather than “partners”) the education must be offered to both the male and female students.  Part of the content needs to include protecting women from early pregnancy.  The two medical people told stories of 14 year-olds having babies and the tragic results.  A primary vehicle is to marry later, simple on the surface, but major cultural shift.  The other primary vehicle is protection.  The idea is to delay and control not prevent as prevention is not accepted here.  He said in the several years he has worked in Rumbek not one woman has come to the hospital for birth control.  (They offer all types as in the US.)  However, in his private practice, he has had many women request some form of birth control.

We also spent some time talking about sanitary protection and ways to keep clean as the female students had mentioned they wanted to know more about that.  He said serious infections, even ones that make a woman sterile, happen as a result of inadequate processes during menstruation.  He talked to us about cleaning and even sanitizing reusable pads. 

I will share all of this with Sonja and she can prepare information for our students.  Nowhere has it been clearer to me than this trip to South Sudan that women’s rights are human rights.

A couple more observations about South Sudan.  Several gas stations are open this week.  That should help the prices and means the roads are open and safe for travel.  The work of NGOs, churches, government, the people themselves is making a difference.  Frankly, I did not notice the improvements immediately as the deficiencies are so dominate.  But as I listen to people I can hear the difference.  New ideas are being accepted – education and encouragement are making a difference.  I have always concluded it is about the cows.  If people no longer give cows for a bride, women will no longer be bought as property but valued as people and partners in marriage.  The need for large herds available for dowries will go away.  The reduction in the number of cows will mean more food for the people immediately because the cows will be used for food rather than dowries.  Fewer cows means less need for fencing around crops which will also mean more food in vegetable gardens and even large fields for grain.  Fewer cows means more water as the overgrazing has expanded the sub-Sahara.  It all gets back to the cows!

Monday and Tuesday – Exams and Challenges

The students across South Sudan started their final exams on Monday.  At Abukloi Secondary School the air was palpable with anxiety.  Because only one exam is given at a time, the levels not taking the exam are waiting outside in the shade.  The school grounds normally loud with chatter and laughter is quiet with students whispering and noses in their notes.  One student described her math exam as “dangerous”.  These exams will last two weeks.  Students who do not pass will have to repeat the entire grade level.  Few choose to do that, opting to drop out.  The Head Teacher will decide which teachers to extend contracts based on the exam scores of their subject(s).  So much rides on these exams for both teachers and students – and influences the future of this nation when you think about how precious each student is.  There are approximately 1,000 students who complete secondary school and the national exam each year.  This is for the entire nation of South Sudan!  It is predicted that number will grow exponentially over the next decade as more secondary schools are being started.

We went back to Nancy’s Gardens today.  Justin put a hand gun in under his belt just to be sure we would be safe.  Even with 4 armed men on the premises, he wanted to assure our safety.  It has been about 10 days since our first visit and much progress has happened.  Four women have cleared a section, all with hand tools, and have begun to break up the soil.  We offered to pay for a tractor and plow to do this, but the soil is so hard the plow will not work so it is done by hand, by women.  It is like breaking rocks.  They are in the hot sun.  This is the challenge for these women wanting to feed their families.  I prayed for the spirit of Nancy to protect and provide for these women and their families.  The challenges they face simply to grow food is so severe, hard to take in.

Once we got back to Justin’s office we talked more with Chol, chairman of the Akuac Community Committee, who oversees this garden project.  I learned that the plan is to start small, with these 4 women.  There will be need for funds to build a small building inside the fence.  This cement block building with iron roof will provide shelter for the guards (who will also sleep in the shelter providing round the clock security), storage for tools, produce, etc. and a space for training the women in agriculture and financial literacy.  The seeds have already been given by an organization, FAO.  They include carrots, tomatoes, watermelon, cabbage, onion, kale, potatoes, okra, and various greens.  In addition, our school will provide seeds for ground nuts.  By February/March the first crops will be harvested.  Local restaurants will come to the garden to purchase food saving many of the women the long walk to the market.  Eventually, they hope to have a Nursery School for the children of the women working the gardens.  An NGO in the area, BRAC, can provide the school but we have to find other sources to fund building the small school.

Several of us in the US had talked about a “Mother’s Garden”.  This is a garden with food especially important for women who are pregnant and breast feeding.  Sonja Tussing and Katie Fleigler compiled a list of foods.  Comparing their lists to the list of seeds we have, I believe we have ourselves a “Mother’s Garden”!

The area where Nancy’s Garden is located is called “Akuac”.  Think of it as a sub-division of mud huts and thatch roofs.  It is an historic community where Angelo was born.  He has been given property to someday build a home.  Near that property are also graves including the grave of his father.  Only the people of “significance” to that community are buried there.  Over the graves are carved trunks (akin to totem poles) and symbols of cow horns.  Justin believes that someday a museum will be built there to tell the story of this ancient people.  He hopes to be the one who writes their story.  I hope I live long enough to read it.

Pizza!  November 15 is Justin’s birthday.  He is now 28!  So I took Justin, Stephanie, and Helen (a member of Angelo’s family here in Rumbek) to dinner at Hill View.  They had pizza!  It was a lovely evening and fun to treat Justin to dinner.

Another Sunday in the Pulpit

Elijah is an Episcopal priest in the Episcopal Church of Sudan and has two female students at Abukloi Secondary School.  He is also the chairman of the Community Development Committee – the local group who built the school facilities we are using.  The Board’s relationship with him is important.  When I was here before he was assigned to the English-speaking service at the church near the market.  Of the approximate 60 people who attended those services many were from local NGOs so it was a good service for us to attend, make connections.  In 2013 he had other people preach for him because of his cataracts.  I was one of those people.  He has since had the cataracts removed.  However, the church he serves now is in Dinka and in the Akuac community where Nancy’s Garden is located.  Friday he asked me to preach this Sunday and I agreed. 

Justin picked me up around 8:00 and then stopped to pick up Elijah, then dropped us off at the Episcopal Church.  The service began around 8:30 with music led by “a girl” and 2 drums.  Elijah, called “Father” by his congregation, coordinated with people who were to lead the service.  We met with about 8 women in white robes and carrying crosses before the service for prayer.  A little after 9:00 we went into the sanctuary.  It is considered an old church having been built by the British in 1947/48. It is made of block with plastered walls and a very high ceiling.  The “pews” are made of concrete blocks with no backs – every pew was filled. That building and its people have seen much history and lost many lives because of their faith.  I estimate over 200 people present.   “Father” asked me to preach and pray for their nation and their church.  He translated the sermon but not the prayer.  After the service we went to the children’s Sunday School.  It was a group of about 20 children meeting under a tree.  Following some time with them we went back into the church.  The same group of women in white robes made a circle with Elijah around a woman who knelt in the middle of the circle.  He said she had applied to be one of the leaders (not sure of their title) in the church but was not accepted for “various reasons”.  She hopes to be accepted the next time.  So we laid hands on and around her and prayed.

Some observations:

During the offering the people come forward rather than having the plates passed.  Everyone comes forward.  If they have money they put it in the basket but if they do not they simply put their hands in the basket.  It is a way to offer themselves.

The same handicapped man (walked on his knees) who was at karaoke at Freedom Square was at church this morning.  He had a bike made for him where he could use his hands/arms to turn the chain. The music was electric with joy and hope.   

-Marg

Easy Saturday

Twenty plus students came to Pan Door by invitation of our Head Girl to write letters to children at St. Stephen’s United Methodist Church in Fairfax County, VA.  Children in grades 3-6 had written to them and they were now to write back.  It was good working with them and learning more about them.  After the US children write back, their Pastor Abi will email these letters.  After that, our students will be able to use the internet café to respond via email!

Justin picked me up after lunch and we went to his office.  They were installing the solar power.  The room that was to be emptied Monday is not empty yet, still working on it.  Normal pace here.  But I was able to read and send some emails.  Only my second time since I have arrived so glad to have that opportunity.  Even in South Sudan I have noticed a digital divide.  While many of the students have no idea about the world wide web, one of the students today had the Abukloi website open on his phone and was reading my blog!

Stephanie Maker, Angelo’s wife, has been spending much time with his family while she is here.  Many of them live outside of Rumbek but they have all come to Rumbek to greet her.  Today was the official reception of her into the Mak’er family.  I went to be part of it as they wanted to recognize me as Angelo’s US mother.  There must have been nearly 100 relatives present.  Very few spoke English so Stephanie and I spent most of our time smiling, the universal language.  At one point the women gathered including Stephanie and they marched through the market as a way to introduce Stephanie to the community.  They are a lovely extended family and I can see why Angelo feels so strongly about them. 

-Marg

Friday – last day of classes

Stephanie and I went to school early this morning for the assembly.  I had gifts for the top male and female students and was able to present those.  I then observed two more teachers.  Teaching here includes a prescribed process.  Every teacher begins every class the same way:  divide the black board into 3 sections using the chalk; write the date and subject; tell the class the purpose and goals of the lesson.  They write on the board as they teach asking students questions in various forms, walking up and down the two aisles of desks.  The best teachers have their notes and lessons memorized.  Other teachers have their notes nearby for reference.  The students write down what the teacher has on the board.  Only the teachers have text books.  The students do not.  The end of class is signaled by a student designated to ring the bell.  He wears a watch.

There is a stark contrast between male and female students.  Most noticeable is there are far fewer females, about 1/3 of the class in registration but more like 1/5 in attendance.  Female students are absent due to responsibilities at home, menstrual cycle with no protection and then the normal things like sickness, especially malaria.  They are less likely to participate in class and complain that the teachers do not call on them very often.  However, today one of the teachers I observed told the class, “I have not heard from many of the girls.  Please raise your hand so I can call on you.”  They are also often late to class because they are assisting with tea, water, and other school activities.  I am meeting with the Head Teacher and Director next week and will raise that concern.  In speaking to a medical doctor today he said, “Women are objects here.”  It may be a slight exaggeration but just slight.  Our school is committed to gender equality but it is a slow process when moving against a strong culture.

Students were told not to come to Pan Door for computer today because they should be studying for exams which start Monday. However, several showed up, and if you know me very well, you know I let them stay.  They are getting better and better so able to help each other.  I am just there when they go somewhere they did not intend to go and can’t get back.  We have no internet at Pan Door so this is just familiarity with the key board, document creation, spreadsheets, etc.

But good news – the internet is installed at the internet café and the technician is going back to Juba tomorrow.  The electrician started today to install the solar power.  I want to have the technology student team meet at the internet café at least once before I leave next Friday so they can set up gmail accounts for themselves and then be able to teach the other students to do the same.

Can I just say it – it is really hot here!  I believe it got to around 100 both yesterday and today.  Dry heat or not, it is hot!  And this is supposed to be easing into their cool season….

Thursday and Saying Good-Bye

Ken, Steve, and Kory were to leave this morning so we were up and at the airport before 8:30.  We waited for 2 hours or so and then Justin (who has phone contact with people at the Juba airport) said we should go and come back later to the airport.  So we went to his office and learned that the internet is up and running!  I was able to use his laptop and respond to a couple of emails.  I did not have my thumb drive with this blog on it so I will have to send updates another time.  The solar power is not installed yet and we are using power from another office but we are close to getting this totally up and running.  A business who was offering computer training has closed.  We hope to buy their tables and chairs.  We still need a few things at the market but Ken and his family left some funds behind so we should be able to purchase those.  Hopefully before I leave we will have it open to the students, and the teachers and technology business club will have their emails established and then able to assist the other students.

After lunch at Pan Door Ken, Steve, and Kory went back to the airport.  We all had some tea at the “outdoor café” and then they took off for Juba, Ken carrying his club and shield – it was too big for any of their luggage.

Justin and I went straight back to Pan Door and there were students waiting to use the computers.  Not everyone got the message that there was not to be any classes today so since I had nothing to do I just got the computers out of my room where they had been recharged last night (we have power from 7pm to 11 pm each night) and opened for business.  Stephanie and Moses are not here but I can figure out most of what the students need since they are at such a basic level.

Today was the hottest day so far – likely 100 or higher.  I am wearing the same sandals every day as my feet swell in the heat and these sandals “expand” so each day the tan/dirt line on my feet gets a bit more defined.

Wednesday OMG

Today was the big thanksgiving celebration so there was no school.  The students arrived early this morning at the school to prepare.  We stayed at Pan Door and worked on some details for business plans to talk to Justin about.  We had no idea how amazing the celebration would be.

We arrived at the school around 2:30 to well over 1,000 people on the school grounds – men, women, children, students and teachers from Abukloi and 4 other secondary schools in the area, government officials, tribal leaders, and more.  The governor was not present.  There had been some tribal conflict in a cattle camp in another area of his state where one man’s dog bit another and one of the men got his gun and shot 3 people.  A major part of a governor’s job is to keep peace in his state so they try to act very quickly before things escalate.  This incident apparently was already fueled by previous tension.

Back to the celebration.  There was music playing through huge speakers, a generator running in the back of the school supplying power, a huge canopy for shade, lots of plastic chairs, and so much more.  It was electric!  We walked around to take it all in.  The students continued with their cooking (beef, rice, “paper food”, flat bread, mocho) and preparing.  To celebrate their culture some were in costume as cattle campers.  A student had carved the bark off long sticks to create decorative switches.  About 3:00 the formal festivities got under way.  There were many speakers, singers, dancers, etc.  At the end the school gave to us wonderful gifts.  Ken, as the donor of the fence around Nancy’s Garden, received a huge shield and stick (similar to a billie stick) that was to be passed down to his family.  Stephanie and I both received lovely covered water gords.

What made this such an amazing OMG event was the thanksgiving was for us, those who started the school, work to keep it going, donate to the school, pray for the school.  The whole community (by this time over 2,000 people) were just so grateful that the people in the US would partner with them to make this happen.  They were so grateful their children were getting this quality education.  I was blown away by their generosity of gratitude.

For all of you who have contributed to Abukloi in some way, know that today you were thanked in a colorful, joyous celebration by the whole community.  And I thank you too!

Tuesday – We Are!

I observed two classes today and reported my observations to the Head Teacher Samuel.  He asked me to share my observations with those particular teachers as well so I will do that.  We were supposed to meet with the Governor this morning but let’s just say he had “double booked” so we are scheduled again tomorrow morning.  That may not happen either but he is supposed to come to our big party tomorrow.  We will see.

Speaking of the big party, let me tell you what I know about it.  Independence Day here is in July but the students at Abukloi like to celebrate it when a Board member is present so they will celebrate tomorrow.  There are no classes in the morning (in fact, the students were sent home a bit early today to have time to wash their uniforms) and people are to gather at the school around 2.  There will be music, dancing, conversation, speaking, dignitaries, and more.  In addition to the governor, some of the tribal chiefs are expected.  They are very grateful for the school and want to express their appreciation.  

The primary food is one of the cows given to one of our female students as part of the dowry she received when recently married.  The female students were busy today making last minute arrangements and practicing their songs and dances.  The student who wrote the school song will sing it live.  We will take video and share later what we can on the website.  It promises to be a great day.

Director Justin had another football (soccer) game today.  He scored a goal and their team won again.  We chose not to go – just too hot today.  About 60 students came to Pan Door again this afternoon for computer science.  We had them practicing the key board using a program on the computers.  They really enjoyed it.  Several of the students are incredibly fast learners and will serve as trainers for the other students.  The internet continues to be a work in progress as parts not yet purchased are being sought.  Nothing here happens fast.

There is a small black fruit on one of the trees in Pan Door.  The students were eating them and had me try one.  They say it tastes like Coke and has medicinal benefits.  When they could no longer reach them (some of our students are 6-6 so they have quite a reach) one of them climbed the tree and began to shake the branches.  Many of these grape-size black fruits fell to the ground.  I wasn’t sure Pan Door would appreciate their behavior but for students still recovering from a starvation season, it was fun to see them gather handfuls of good food.

I was sitting with several students and teachers today.  Our school, as you know, is called Abukloi.  Abukloi is a native Dinka word for “we can”.  They told me that is no longer their name.  They are now called “we are”!

Happy 3rd Anniversary, Abukloi School

Over 2000 people attended the third anniversary celebration of the school including many government dignitaries. One of our female students just got married and the father gave a cow to be roasted which all enjoyed. There were many people who thanked the U.S. Board for funding and organizing such a successful school. There were many thanks to Marg, Angelo, and Bev for all their efforts back in 2013 to coordinate with the government, plus the hiring of staff, and piloting of the first remedial program preparing the students for the first school year.  All of this done in record time. 

No school  in South Sudan has ever began so quickly and had such success.  Everyone who has supported us should be proud. The Lord has truly paved the way for Abukloi.  We are truly blessed .

Monday and A New Song and Dance

Several of the students met us at Pan Door this morning and we walked to school.  It took us about 35 minutes.  The school has assembly on Mondays and Fridays.  Today’s assembly introduced the school song.  It was very recently written and recorded by one of the students, David.  The students loved it and started to dance.  Of course, the teachers joined in, even the ladies from the community who make tea started to dance.  Then Ken and I joined the dance.  It was great fun and a wonderful way to get a new week started at Abukloi Secondary School.

Ken and Steve taught two classes on business skills.  Kory and I observed a new teacher of English.  He is also a priest at the Episcopal Church here in Rumbek.  He is an excellent teacher.  Both Kory and I were impressed.

At break I was invited to sit on a chair in the shade to talk to Veronica, Head Girl.  She is 17 years old, one of 8 children in a family whose father died when Veronica was just 6.  She is also the top girl in grade 11.  She said her grades were not adequate so she talked to her family and they agreed to limit her tasks at home so she has more time to study.  She is now 5^th in her level and is very proud of that.  One of the issues she shared with me is the competing expectations of her family.  Her parents are educated people and want the same for all of their children.  Her father was a banker and her mother is an X-ray technician.  But her uncles want Veronica to get married so she will bring more cows to the family.  They believe she can bring 300 cows.  She is afraid they will force a marriage on her even before she can complete secondary school (next year about this time).  If she is able to complete secondary school as a single person, she is afraid she will then be forced and not able to go to the university.  This she “wants to do very much.”  But she will need to leave the country to assure herself the freedom of choice.  So when the time comes, we will consider having her go to the US to school.  She would find work and go to school. 

Our thinking is that we know we cannot lift every student equally but the brightest and best who want to make a difference in their nation will be given extra consideration.  It is about finding the ones with the ability and vision to make their nation prosper for everyone.  She is definitely one of those.

Another point of conversation this morning with Veronica – even though her mother is working at the hospital in Rumbek she is finding it more than a challenge to pay school fees.  We don’t charge much (1,250 SSP) but for Veronica’s family this becomes impossible.  So one of the things we are considering is having students who are both capable and needing in funds to work the internet café or the sewing business.  This will provide them with skills, pay their fees, and allow for more profit from the business to go to the school.

Stephanie Maker (Angelo’s wife) and Moses Chol (Lost Boy now living in Juba and great supporter of our school) arrived this afternoon from Juba.  By 3:00 they were already working with Kory and the students on the computers.  Stephanie brought 1 so we now have 9.

Sunday in South Sudan

Last night was warm with little breeze but still able to sleep.  After our typical breakfast of bread and tea, we walked to the Catholic Church for their 9 am service.  It is in English and is promoted as a “student service”.  The majority of congregants are young men – majority of students in Rumbek are young men.  Justin picked us up around 9:15 to drive us to the Anglican Service. One of our students is a bishop at that church and we have a special connection to that congregation so we try to worship there every time we come.  It is in Dinka but the priest preaching today preached in English with a Dinka interpreter.  As always in almost every setting we were asked to speak always in this order:  Kory, Steve, Ken and me.  We have grown to expect it

After lunch we rode boda bodas (motor bikes) to the market.  We walked around, saw some people we knew (students, Angelo’s brother, etc.) and then rode boda bodas back.  Ken and I shared one boda boda (driver, me, Ken sitting on the bar at the very back).  Fifty years ago when I graduated from high school and left home, I never thought I would ever be sharing a boda boda with Ken in Africa!

Just some observations about Rumbek this time compared to previous times.  The poverty is worse.  South Sudan is experiencing hyper-inflation so nearly everything is more expensive than people can afford, especially food.  Many of the local businesses have not survived (not charging enough for items to pay the inflated prices for the replacement items).  Many of the shops in the market are closed and there are NO gas stations open.  People are buying gas in liter plastic bottles at about $3 per liter.  There are far fewer cars on the road.  People are slimmer and their clothes are thinner.  We see this everywhere from our students to little children to the elderly.  Even the professional people are experiencing this.  The NGOs are also finding it hard to function with the high prices.

There are also fewer trucks on the road.  Trucks are the life-line of the non-profits (NGOs – non-government organizations), so when there are fewer of those this means there are fewer non-profits working in the area.  With the violence in July, many NGOs have pulled out.  It is more than heart-breaking.  But the joy of the people at the churches is truly amazing.  Happiness really is a choice and joy is the result of a confidence and hope that runs to the soul of who we are.  The people here have that happiness, joy and confidence.  Tomorrow we walk to school with the students and Stephanie Maker and Moses Chol arrive from Juba with the technician to install the internet at the internet “café”.

Unbelievable Day - Saturday

This morning we finally got to see Nancy’s Garden.  What we thought might be 10 acres is more like 3 but we were soon to learn that it is more than adequate.  I took some video and pictures and will share those as I can.  There were several women and one man working the ground with short-handled tools.  There were also two armed guards.  Ken and I are exploring ways to make this process go faster.  The local organization with the tractor and plow said the ground was too hard in this dry season to use that.  So maybe dynamite – lol.  The soil is clay with sand.  There are few rocks.  But the soil sets up like concrete in this heat and lack of rain.  We continue to seek options to speed up the process.  This garden is called Nancy’s Garden, in memory of our mother as it is her children who have provided the funds for it.  It was very special to be there today.

But the real unbelievable part of the day came a few minutes later when we traveled to another large farm.  This is a new grass-roots effort done by some local Christians.  They have 800 women working a large area of land.  As we approached we could see the women off in the distance working the fields and a noise that sounded like migrating birds gathered in trees.  It was the sound of the women talking and laughing as they worked.  It was the sound of hope.  As we got closer they stopped their work and came to greet us.  They immediately came to me as the only woman in our group, encircled me and began to sing hymns.  When I repeated their chants, they cheered and did the standard African cry of “EEEEEEEEEEEK”.  I did my best imitation and they cheered more.  One of the women then prayed.

Then they took us around to their gardens.  Their only form of fence is piles of brush.  And their only water was a large puddle. About 5-6 women worked a section of garden about 5 X 7 feet, very small but understandable after seeing the women in Nancy’s Garden trying to prepare the soil.  Between each micro-garden was a raised path.  They were very proud to pose for pictures around their plots of okra, watermelon, tomatoes, etc. 

We then gathered under a tree for introductions.  Each of us was asked to speak and our director, Justin, translated.  Several of their leading women also spoke and one prayed.  Then they gave us a goat, beautiful brown coat.  We put the goat in the trunk of the car and left as we had appointments back at Pan Door and we were quite late.

What made this place so miraculous was the hope and joy of the people.  They spelled out their problems to us and they were significant (cows and goats easily able to walk over the brush fence, lack of water, some had to walk many miles to get there) but they came 6 days a week to cultivate a future of food for their families.  God was truly in that place, the ground felt holy.

And don’t worry about the goat in the trunk.  He is safe, at least for the moment, but will likely be somebody’s dinner soon.

As soon as we got back I met with the teachers.  This is another responsibility of a board member’s visit.  Then after a very quick lunch I met with the female students.  We just talked about life for them now and in the future.  I had brought items for sanitary protection kits.  After we talked some about the issue of menstruation for females in South Sudan and that they liked the kits I had brought before, I got out everything I had and we began to put kits together.  Pair of panties, 5 pads, mechanism to secure the pads to the panties, card with directions all inside a zip lock bag.  They were so very excited to receive them.  Because we are short complete kits for all the female students, we will try to sew more items and buy more panties at the local market.  I would like every female student who wants one to have one.

Some of the female students came back to my room to help me gather the supplies and discovered the hand-made teddy bears Ken had brought from a woman in his community.  Our plan was to take them to the Anglican Church on Sunday to distribute to the children there.  But the students were so excited about them that we gave them all away.  Toys are a luxury none of these students have experienced.  I had fun showing them how children in the US play with stuffed animals: giving them names, personalities, talk to them and for them, etc.  They became like children themselves.  So, we went from the talk of becoming a woman to them becoming children again.  It was great fun and they did not want to leave, in fact, more than one stayed until nearly 7 pm.

So now we have two new idea for sewing projects:  sanitary protection kits and stuffed animals.  These will be easier than sewing uniforms and will provide good practice as they continue to learn sewing skills.  They also provide a possible business for students – selling these hand-made items in the market as there are none now.

Kory had 2 more groups of students working on the computers.  Today he pushed them to learn basic spread sheets.  I even helped a bit with this.  (Bob would be so proud of me since he is the one who taught me.)  This goes along with the teaching of business skills and will help them when they go to develop their own business plan.

Tonight, Justin invited us to his home for dinner.  We ate outside under the stars.  A woman had prepared the meal (not goat).  It was a most beautiful evening, ending a most miraculous day.

-Marg

Day Two of Teaching: Friday

Last night was perfect sleeping weather – cool – no sweating – even pulled a sheet up early this morning.

Today is Friday so school was just a half day.  When an Abukloi Board member visits Rumbek there is quite a list of people to meet with.  The student leaders is one such group and I met with them this morning.    They spoke for over an hour while I listened and took notes.  Their concerns have some similarities to those in the US but the differences are far greater.  Their primary concern was for the teachers.  Because of the way we are paying them, their pay has not kept up with the  hyper-inflation South Sudan is experiencing.  Three of their teachers have left and the students are very loyal to good teachers.  There was continued interest in boarding for male students for safety and for female students for release of family chores that keep them from their studies.  I will take all their concerns to our Director and their teachers who I meet with tomorrow (Saturday morning) and then to the Board.

The materials and equipment for the internet café arrived today via plane (turned out that was less expensive than by truck). Tomorrow the technician is to arrive and Monday it is all to be installed.  Meanwhile, the students are coming to Pan Door for computer lessons.  With 275 students and 8 computers there is generally 3-5 students per computer.  But they are patient and used to working in groups so things went smoothly.  Two groups met yesterday, two today, and there will be three tomorrow which will then have provided all students with a basic introduction.  It has also allowed Kory to observe the students familiar with computers.  They can be used to train others.

The radio program (the one I was interviewed about the internet café) aired last night and again this morning.  Already the teachers and director are receiving calls.  We will likely have to have people make appointments to use it because our service is limited as we start and we want time for our students to use it.  Rumbek has about 750,000 people and we will have the only public internet.  No wonder people are excited.

Ken and Steve taught their last introductory class of starting a business.  I was able to sit in and was impressed with this class. They seemed to get it!  One wanted to be a retailer, two pharmacists, the girls sitting next to me wanted to have a boutique.  The class is loving having Ken, Steve, and Kory here to teach them these subjects – great excitement in the air!

This evening we went to the town square to watch Justin play soccer.  His team won 4-1.  There was also karaoke happening directly in front of us, about 6 feet away.  It was loud but we could watch the game in the shade from that elevation, even sitting down.  One can tell much about a society by the way they treat those who are different.  At the karaoke, there was a man who had to walk on his knees.  In addition, he wore thick glasses and had garbled speech but they invited him to sing and dance.  People showed their appreciation by putting money in the performers pockets.  (With the inflation, the money isn’t worth much.)  This handicapped man received far more than any other performer and great applause.  It warms the heart to see people with nothing being generous with some who has even less.

I was able to move to a different room today.  It is self-contained so the bathroom is part of the room.  The other room had communal toilets and showers.  I was sharing it with men and just felt uncomfortable so am glad to be in this new room. 

-Marg

First Day Teaching and Media Present

Post sent by Marg Kutz from Rumbek . . .

Last night was very warm so I took a shower again before breakfast of PB&J on rolls and hot tea.  This morning we were to be at school by 8:00 for the weekly assembly.  But this assembly was special as local media was present to record our actions.  Kory, Steve, Ken, and I were all asked to speak.  We mostly expressed gratitude and encouragement.  I was interviewed by Justin as to the purpose of our visit.  We were told we will receive a copy of the video taken this morning.    Maybe we can share it through the Abukloi website.

For those of you who do not know my family, Ken is my brother.  He and another brother and our parents started a nursing home in 1972.  Since then Ken has retired and his son, Steve, has taken the reigns.  Ken and Steve are here to teach small business strategy – how to start, run, and grow a small business.  I was able to sit in on their class and it was met with great enthusiasm. Kory, Steve’s son, was invited to a student-led Bible study held during the break twice a week.  One of my responsibilities this week is to observe teachers so I sat in on a math class today with one of the brand-new teachers.  Frankly, it was all new information to me!

I am having more trouble than usual with swelling in my legs and feet.  During the class I started to get very light headed (you know, the bright light and ringing in the ears) so I had Justin bring me back to Pan Door to lay down.  Even Virginia heat does not prepare one’s body for the heat here.

-Marg

Arrived in Rumbek

We arrived in Juba this morning and have had a full day.  I won’t bore you with the details of the trip that started on Monday morning at Dulles Airport near DC but we did spend more than 15 hours in the air, took 4 flights in 3 days and in one of the 4 airports I went through security FOUR times.  In terms of security we were most concerned with Juba but our time there was uneventful.  Of course, the Juba airport was a zoo but that is to be expected.

We are staying at Pan Door, the Catholic Compound in Rumbek.  It is a busy yet serene place with the sounds of doves, cows, and chickens.  The food is monotonous but nutritious, just a little short on vegetables and fruit and plentiful in starch.  There is a conference here so most of the rooms are occupied and the dining area is more full than usual.  The student leaders walked from school to the airport to meet us but they were a bit late so then walked to Pan Door to meet us there (and then back to school). There is a decorum about them that exemplifies their respect and gratitude.  It is beautiful and humbling.

We visited the school immediately and found it to be in excellent order.  Teachers and students present and learning.  I spoke to each of the 6 classes to explain our goals.  We also toured Director Justin’s new office and the room that will be sued for the internet café.  It was full of medical supplies as the building has been used by the Health Department.  But they assured us the room will be emptied tomorrow.

We spent quite a while at the market.  I got a sim card and minutes for my phone.  We greeted students and others in the community who were also at the market.  I am always amazed how many people remember me - I haven’t been here for a year. We also toured Justin’s home.  He now has within his fence a bedroom, sitting room, and kitchen.  There is a latrine under way and a space for bathing (think sponge bath) is in the corner of his fenced area.  His big addition is electricity and a satellite dish.   The last night I was here he had a refugee family living in his sitting area.  Now his cousins are living there.  He said that when conflict breaks out, he invites the people around him to come inside the fence where they will be more secure.  Justin is incredibly compassionate and committed to the well-being of his nation.  We are so blessed to have him as our director.

We spent about an hour in the town square.  It is a large area with a full-size soccer (football) field where a game was being played.  There is a half-size concrete basketball court.  Nearly everyone is over 6 feet tall and some over 7 so it is quite amazing to watch them play.  In another area there was a live band and people dancing.  Spectators were watching the soccer game and just hanging out.  Because this space is across the street from the market, people tend to go there where the market closes around 5 or 6 pm.  It is encouraging to see people who live in such poverty, have a place to go and be with friends and enjoy their time together.

Dinner at Pan Door was rice, beans, beef, greens, spaghetti around 7:30.  We showered and were in bed by 9 – still recovering from jet lag.

-Marg