The South Sudan We Want - Episode 1. 2017

Thursday, April 13: How Hot Is It?

You know it is hot when:
* the Director, a South Sudan native, greets you at 8 a.m. with "It is HOT!"

* you cannot even get a cold shower because the sun has warmed the water in the water tank

* an Italian engineer who has been working in South Sudan for years asks me how I stay survive the heat

BTW, I shared with the Italian engineer my strategy of wetting the front of me, including my night gown, 2-3 times per night.  I believe he did it as his room is near mine and I could hear a shower several times during the night.

During the night last night we had a big storm blow through.  First came the strong wind, then rolling thunder and lightning, then rain.  It cooled things and they stayed cool until around 10 a.m.  So much dust was kicked up that the cleaning women where I am staying, were cleaning every one's room.  Since I am leaving early Friday morning, there was no sense in cleaning mine.  I expect to be covered in dust pretty much all of the time.

One of the leading people at UNMISS came to the school today with 2 other dignitaries.  His speech to the students was wonderful, so inspirational, encouraging.  I said my good-byes, got a little choked up.  They are all so amazing and I am so privileged to be part of what God is doing in their lives.

As the last 2 days of a trip here comes to a close I can count on two things happening:

1.  many students coming to me for financial assistance.  They write out their request on slips of paper.  I will respond to some and give it to the Head Teacher to give to students on Friday, after I am gone.

2.  projects we have been talking about taking on new questions, information, solutions.  I have learned that often the notes I take early in the trip about conversations that I thought brought us to a resolution are superseded by recent notes on the current solution.  In other words, in this place of great obstacles, the solution today may not be the one tomorrow.

Tonight the teachers and student leaders will be going to Director Justin's for dinner.  He has been very gracious to invite us to his home - amazing.  The "girl" who cooks and cleans for him will prepared it.  (Although this morning he was a bit late picking me up because he had to slaughter and prepare the goat so she could cook it.)  Guess what we are having for dinner tonight - fresh goat!  In addition, Justin's uncle who died over the weekend and was buried yesterday in another community, is having a funeral today here in Rumbek.  Justin is at that this afternoon, even as he is preparing for dinner guests and driving me around town.

My plan is to fly out of Rumbek to Juba tomorrow morning.  From there I will fly Ethiopian Air to Addas Ababa, 4 hour lay over, then long flight to Dulles.  If everything goes as planned Bob will pick me up early Saturday morning and I'll be in my own church Easter Sunday.  We shall see.

Blessings on all of you.  Please remember South Sudan in your prayers.

Monday, April 10: Computers and Business Plans

It is really hot with no relief so I did the shower in the night shirt and lay on the sheets.  Twice I did it and was able to get some much needed rest - ahhh!

This morning I observed 2 of the new teachers.  This afternoon 1/2 of the senior class came to review the business plans they wrote over the weekend and then learn how to create a document on the computers.  They can't get enough of computer time.

Director Justin Mathok's uncle was killed this weekend in South Sudan.  He was in the military.  They were ambushed.  Very sad for so many.

Yesterday I saw a line of about a dozen people walking down the road/paths here carrying large items on their heads.  The were IDP's (internal displaced people) returning back to Rumbek as conflict has ended.  This will be just in time for the rainy season when they can plant their gardens.  Good to see something positive.

Marg

Sunday, April 9: Survival Strategies

Survival of Body

It is really hot here - highs over 100 and never getting below 80.  So sleep is a challenge.  I was able to get a fan but it only works until the power goes off around 10 or 11 pm.  Last night it was hot and the air was not moving so not only was I sweating but I felt like I could hardly breath.  So I turned on the shower, wet my face and arms and then the front of me, including my night gown.  I laid on my back and allowed the heat to dry me.  It worked well - almost AC-like..  I did it a second time when I woke up due to the heat again.  One survival issue addressed.

Survival of Spirit

Saturday was a particularly hard day for my spirit.  Not sure why, but you know sometimes it is just the way things hit you.  Around 8:30 am one of our students stopped to talk.  He had been supported by his uncle but with the high prices here, he can no longer take care of his wife and children, let alone his nephew.  He understood but felt so very alone.  He is currently living with one of the teachers (incredibly dedicated to the students, our teachers).  But the last straw was that someone broke into their home and stole the few things that he had.  He is unable to pay the school fees or purchase shoes.  The look in his eyes was so hopeless.  I just felt so incredibly bad for him - so, so many things working against him.  Then a bit later I was at the school working on sewing when one of the student leaders asked for funds to help repay a loan he had taken out to buy milk for his child.  Loan for milk?  The needs are so basic to life and there are so many.  It takes a toll on the spirit.  So I got out the photo album our daughter Jennifer put together for me in 2013 and I have kept updated.  Seeing the people I love feeds the soul - readjusted.

Beyond Survival

Today was a new one for me.  This Palm Sunday  I preached at a Pentecostal Church.  I couldn't tell if they were speaking in tongues or Dinka or a different brand of English.  It was all really very wonderful, spirit healing.  I preached on the valley of the dry bones - call to the 4 winds and tell them to breath new life.  That is a message needed here.

Marg

Friday, April 7: Life is Very Hard

Today was a most interesting day.  We started at Nancy's Garden early this morning.  They generally work from 8-10 when it is a bit cooler.  Bob (my husband) told me the high in Rumbek is 104 and low of 84 - that explains why I feel the heat!  Anyway, the garden is doing very well and I enjoyed my time with the people.  The guards have gotten interested and help the women with the work.  Currently we have just 4 women working so only a small section of the 2.5 acres are cultivated.  But we plan to get many more women and possibly a tractor and plow to break the ground - much easier after the rainy season starts.  They have also planted mango trees.  The women taught me how to do the traditional celebration cry of African women - so look out church!

From there we went to the school.  I had just begun teaching the seniors about the business plan project when someone came in to tell me one of the students collapsed.  I wasn't sure why they were telling me but quickly learned they wanted me to come - calling me Dr. Margaret can get confusing.  Anyway, she was having a seizure and I do know a little about that so was able to direct students what not to do and what to do.  They got a stick and I talked to them about the tongue.  We took her off the chair and laid her on the floor, got cloth in water to place on her forehead and back of neck.  They wanted to give her tea but I told them no as she might choke.  She had froth at her mouth.  We called Director Justin who had just left to come back and take her to the hospital.  He came and she left with her sister (another student), female teacher, and another student.  When Justin returned later we learned she had malaria and typhoid so apparently the seizure was a result of a high fever.  Anyway, I was exhausted from the drama of being looked to an an expert in an environment when I knew the most about a medical response.  Interesting, earlier in the day, going from Nancy's Garden to school, we stopped to pick up a mother and child who was taking her infant child to the clinic.  It was a very long walk for them so glad we were there.  I told Justin he was like an ambulance!  I asked him if he had not been available to take the female student to the hospital what would they have done.  He said one of the teachers would have taken her on his motor bike - oh my.

The needs here are overwhelming and I always feel totally inadequate to even hear them because the people expressing them believe I am capable of supplying the response.  At one time the needs were less essential, like a new tie for the holidays or even school fees.  But now they are basic like food, clothing, and medicine.  I will learn from Justin about the amount needed for a very few of these and contribute, a drop in the bucket.  The way the people here express it is this:  Life right now is very hard.  Indeed it is.

I may not get back to blogging until Monday as I will probably not have access to the internet.  Saturday morning I am to meet some students at the school for sewing.  Then in the afternoon I am to meet with the teachers.  Sunday I will preach at a Pentecostal Church and then meet with the females students after lunch.  I so enjoy being with "my girls".

Marg

Friday

Today was a most interesting day. We started at Nancy's Garden early this morning. They generally work from 8-10 when it is a bit cooler. Bob (my husband) told me the high in Rumbek is 104 and low of 84 - that explains why I feel the heat! Anyway, the garden is doing very well and I enjoyed my time with the people. The guards have gotten interested and help the women with the work. Currently we have just 4 women working so only a small section of the 2.5 acres are cultivated. But we plan to get many more women and possibly a tractor and plow to break the ground - much easier after the rainy season starts. They have also planted mango trees. The women taught me how to do the traditional celebration cry of African women - so look out church! From there we went to the school. I had just begun teaching the seniors about the business plan project when someone came in to tell me one of the students collapsed. I wasn't sure why they were telling me but quickly learned they wanted me to come - calling me Dr. Margaret can get confusing. Anyway, she was having a seizure and I do know a little about that so was able to direct students what not to do and what to do. They got a stick and I talked to them about the tongue. We took her off the chair and laid her on the floor, got cloth in water to place on her forehead and back of neck. They wanted to give her tea but I told them no as she might choke. She had froth at her mouth. We called Director Justin who had just left to come back and take her to the hospital. He came and she left with her sister (another student), female teacher, and another student. When Justin returned later we learned she had malaria and typhoid so apparently the seizure was a result of a high fever. Anyway, I was exhausted from the drama of being looked to an an expert in an environment when I knew the most about a medical response. Interesting, earlier in the day, going from Nancy's Garden to school, we stopped to pick up a mother and child who was taking her infant child to the clinic. It was a very long walk for them so glad we were there. I told Justin he was like an ambulance! I asked him if he had not been available to take the female student to the hospital what would they have done. He said one of the teachers would have taken her on his motor bike - oh my. The needs here are overwhelming and I always feel totally inadequate to even hear them because the people expressing them believe I am capable of supplying the response. At one time the needs were less essential, like a new tie for the holidays or even school fees. But now they are basic like food, clothing, and medicine. I will learn from Justin about the amount needed for a very few of these and contribute, a drop in the bucket. The way the people here express it is this: Life right now is very hard. Indeed it is. I may not get back to blogging until Monday as I will probably not have access to the internet. Saturday morning I am to meet some students at the school for sewing. Then in the afternoon I am to meet with the teachers. Sunday I will preach at a Pentecostal Church and then meet with the females students after lunch. I so enjoy being with "my girls".

Arrived in Rumbek

Moses picked me up to get to the airport by 10 am. The flight does not have a scheduled departure time other than "whenever". It was hot, crowded, and very windy. I was covered in orange dust and black specs but frankly with the heat, the wind wasn't all bad. Finally, the plane left around 2:15. I think I would still be at the airport if Moses hadn't been there to help me navigate. I took a couple pictures of the airport and will send those later. Director Justin and Head Teacher Thomas were at the airport to welcome me. We went to Pan Door (Catholic compound where I am staying) and talked for awhile. One of the big issues is a very large section of the metal roof of the school blew off in a storm. One class room and one office are totally exposed on one side and another classroom is partially exposed. This needs to be fixed before rainy season which is fast on its way. One of the issues is the prices go up so quickly with this hyper-inflation that it is hard to get an estimate. One of the students told me he almost cried when he saw the damage to his school. After they left I went to my room, got organized, rested and then went to dinner. Two meals a day the same items are served - beef, 2 types of carbs (pasta, rice, native paste dish), green leafy vegetable, and bake beans. It isn't bad when just here for a week or so but there are people who live at Pan Door years on end. I guess in a land of hunger they are grateful. This morning I waited for Justin outside the gate to Pan Door. I met several students. Apparently they had arrived late and not in uniform so were sent home - uh-oh. I also had two people on their way to the market who asked for money to buy food. I didn't give any to the first one (young man) but then decided to give some to the second person, an older woman. At lunch I put more money in my bag so I would be ready. We went to the school today. They held an assembly and had someone from Good News Radio Station present. It was great fun seeing all the students - I even remembered some of their names! We now have 360 students and half are female. This is quite an accomplishment! There are many issues but basically things are going well. After lunch we went to the market to see the sewing business. Right now there are 3 tailors from town who are making uniforms for the 9th and 10th grades. I took a picture and will send that later. When these are done they will invite students to come and learn. From the market we went to the Abukloi City Link Cafe. There were several customer present and I am on their internet now. It is already in need of expansion with more solar panels to bump up the capacity. One of the students gave me a hand-written note that in many ways is meant for all of you who have contributed in so many ways to the people of South Sudan. Here is part of what she wrote: We are touched by your loving heart that moves from a thousand miles away for our sake. We wouldn't offer you anything in the world other than just giving appreciations and thanksgiving to you. The lesson we learn from you is being willing in giving charitable work or services without expecting a thing in return. I believe some of us are going to be your role models to help the needy. You inspired us and your aspirations and determinations has soften our hearts because you are carrying out the humanity.

Jet lag is bothering me more this time than usual. Staying in a hotel room with little to do but read does not help - need to be up and about. (I am reluctant to leave the hotel alone but I did climb to the top floor to see the roof cafe.) But I did read the better part of a great book on social enterprises (now there's something to keep you awake). The businesses we are starting are really this category, social enterprises - a term I was not familiar with until the UN event I went to in NYC last month. I have soooo much to learn. The sleep thing again - when I woke up this morning at 3:30 and couldn't get back to sleep I called our daughter Jennifer on google hangout. The microphone on my computer was muted and I couldn't figure out how to turn it on so she talked and watched me gesture on the video. It was quite the conversation! Finally, we just instant messaged each other. I got back to sleep around 6 and woke up the second time around 9. Hoping for better sleep tonight. Moses is one of the Lost Boys who has been very helpful of our projects here. He works and lives in Juba, the one who met me at the airport yesterday. He stopped by 3 times today and got my phone working (don't trust the Verizon service representatives to know how to use your phone in South Sudan) and money exchanged. The inflation here is very high - exchange rate today is $1=72 South Sudanese Pounds or 1 SSP = $.014. My dinner tonight was $11.34 so not bad at all. Let me just say that TV channels here are limited. There are a plethora of news channels including CNN and BBC and in English and Arabic. There is 1 channel for sports, all soccer as far as I can tell, and 1 other channel called 1 - it is all movies and they aren't much, lots of subtitle and poor acting. I am excited to get to Rumbek tomorrow. Moses told me many of the good things happening there and I can hardly wait to see it all! He reports people everywhere inside and out the internet cafe (really need another solar panel), many women working Nancy's Garden, uniforms being made in the market with students' help, and 365 students at the school with half being female. So much has progressed just since my visit last November - unheard of here. God has been busy!

Arrived in Juba

It was 22 hours from hotel door in VA to hotel door in Juba, South Sudan but I have arrived safely! It is always interesting to pick out the other "aid workers" at the airport. We really stand out, well others more than me. Many are White. The ones with neck scarves and gauze or linen type shirts fit the description to a T. Most all are from large non-profits working somewhere in East Africa (since our flight goes to Ethiopia in East Africa). It is always interesting to learn what people are doing. Few have much contact with the people they are wanting to serve - the organization is just so large. Juba airport is still being built and the old one was torn down in November so they continue with tents. They are now orange from the dust. The floors are large pieces of plywood set on top of cinder blocks. They are worn very thin in many places, even large holes. But people just walk around all of that as best they can in the cramped quarters. It was actually a bit better laid out than it was in the original airport that was torn down last year. I was grilled last year about a yellow fever shot. I had decided not to get one because complications double when over 60 years old. But I weighed my options and decided to get it. You guessed it, nobody asked me a thing about it. Even had my immunization card in my hand but nothing. Moses Chol, one of the Lost Boys Settled in Atlanta but now living in Juba and a long time Abukloi supporter, was at the airport to help me navigate. Because he works for the President of South Sudan, he has some status and can get me through the luggage retrieval, no turn style here! He also had transport for me and a hotel reservation. The hotel is quite nice with electricity, AC, hot water, and wifi. So no complaints here! Moses told me the government workers hadn't been paid for 4 months. That impacts not only those workers (including teachers) and their families but the whole economy. Many schools and businesses depend upon them as customers. I know it has impacted the internet cafe Abukloi has in Rumbek. The bad news is there are no flights to Rumbek tomorrow, Tuesday, so I have to wait for Wednesday. My "ticket" is a handwritten note with my name and time to be at the airport. No airline name, flight #, etc. I have much I want to accomplish this trip and had shortened my time to 13 days total including travel so I just lost a valuable day. But if I have learned anything in these trips it is to just go with the flow. God is in there somewhere.

April Fools Day

It was 45 years ago today that Bob and I married - yes it was April Fools Day. And we are more in love now than ever - who would have thought! We are having lunch with friends in Fredricksburg this afternoon then on to Comfort Inn at Dulles Airport. A shuttle in the morning will take me to the airport for a very long flight. I will fly Ethiopian Air from Dulles to Addis Ababa in Ethiopia, arriving Monday morning, 15 hours and 15 minutes. There is a 3 hour layover then a 2 hour flight to Juba, capital of South Sudan. I will spend the night in Juba and then fly out Tuesday for Rumbek, a short 1 hour flight. I am traveling alone this time and for a shorter period of time - total of 13 days. There is much to accomplish so this is an experiment to see if this time shorter period is productive. We received word this week from our director, Justin, that a storm damaged a roof of the school. The local Community Development Committee who owns the property was notified and it is being repaired. Hopefully, it will be in good shape soon. School is in full session! I will try to write daily but will have to see how the internet availability is this time....