We apologize for not blogging for awhile. We have been busy, away from good internet, and not much interesting has been happening. This will likely be our last blog from South Sudan because we are returning home in a few days. Last Thursday we moved from Afex (tent living) to Pan Dor, which is the housing for the Catholics here. W share a nice room that has screens in the windows and running water. Marion is the person on staff responsible for the housing and food. She has been so very good to us, including finding us a floor fan. There is power only from 7-11 pm but we do fine - get all our electronics charged. The teachers we hired are doing a great job. We try to stop by every day or two. The energy is very positive. On Friday we are inviting the families of the students to come so we can meet them and share with them more about the school. We are looking forward to meeting them. Some of them have parents, others are parents! We also selected a contractor to build the facilities - 2 classrooms, an office, and latrines. We continue to visit with NOGs and government people. There is a great network here of people working together and we want to be part of that. I preached on Sunday at the English-speaking Episcopal service. I had to speak very loud and slowly but I think the about 130 people in attendance could hear me and understand me. They seemed to respond (laugh, complete sentences) at the right time. So we have 3 more nights in Rumbek, then a night in Juba, one night on the plane and we will be home! I am sad to leave here but happy to be going home. Thank you to all of you for your prayers and support in this. If you want us to speak at your church or group, just let us know. If you want to give financial support, Thanksgiving and Christmas are great times to do that. We will need $100,000 for just the facility. Then we have teacher salaries, etc. So consider if you want to support Abukloi. Again, thanks!

New Accommodations

"Transitional Housing" for Bev and Marg.  These are rooms located at
Afex, a compound primarily for NGOs (non-profit).  Platform tents with
electricity 24/7 and running water.  Living large!

Bev and I have been caught up in a major cultural event here in South Sudan. Jacob's daughter, Agok, is getting married in December. This weekend/week is the cattle exchange. So Jacob and much of his family have traveled from Juba to Rumbek. The women arrived on Friday and spent the night at the house sleeping on mats on the floor. We aren't sure how many there were but there was much chatter! Apparently the women are expected to be present to support the bride but do not participate in the cattle negotiation. We understand from Agok that there are TWO men negotiating, a common practice which serves to increase the number of cattle exchanged, the excitement, and creates somewhat of a choice for the bride. Before a final decision is made Agok's parents will ask her if she has a preference. If we actually get to go to the cattle camp for the exchange we will take pictures and let you know how all of this works. We had planned to move from Jacob's home to the Catholic Compound (Pan Dor) but a room was not available. Then we considered a place called Canal. However, in the end we decided to stay at Afex, the place we go to nearly daily for internet. There are three levels of accommodations at Afex, most of them housing people who work for NGOs (non-profits). The high end are rooms made of blocks and bricks and includes a TV! The next two levels are tents on concrete platforms. We opted for the lowest level because of the prices. But we do have electricity 24/7, and running water including warm water at the shower head. The room has a fan and screens on the tent openings. We slept very well. We anticipate staying at Afex just three nights and then move to Pan Dor. We will be closer to the school (walking distance) and the rate is far less. Our director, Philip Nyumba, was at home in Kenya visiting with his wife and two children when he came down with malaria. He was very sick and it has greatly delayed his return. This has handicapped us in terms of connecting with other NGOs. Philip has been doing that for the past year so these are connections he already has and could help us with. We will do what we can until he comes and trust God will provide what is needed. Our understanding is that other established NGOs sometimes assist new NGOs. And we need all the assistance we can get! We have been able to change our return airline tickets. So we will leave Rumbek for Juba Nov. 9 and South Sudan Nov. 10 returning to the US Nov. 11 early morning. We have much to do before then. Pray for God to make a way, to open doors. When we get home we are availalbe to speak. Let us know if you would like us to speak at your church or group. Marg

Passing the Torch

Today was our last day of teaching. Monday the new teachers start. Two of them stopped by today to sign their contracts and get books and information. Speaking for myself (Marg), I have enjoyed teaching but am glad to turn it over as we transition into other work. Full time teachers here apparently teach just 10 classes a week. Bev and I have been teaching 25 which could explain our tiredness! The heat really makes a difference here, especially at our age. We may also change our living quarters this weekend. Jacob, who owns the house we are staying in, is coming this weekend. This means there will likely be several others coming with him. So we are hoping to go to the Catholic Compound. They are full but if Sister Maureen leaves tomorrow we can have her room. If not, we will see what other options are available. Life here is always unpredictable and interesting. Our director, Philip, has been late returning from vacation visiting his wife and children in Kenya and we have not been able to communicate with him for more than a week. We learned today that he had malaria, was hospitalized, and was unconscience. So we are very glad to know he is feeling better! He probably will not return until next week. It will take his body awhile to gain strength. Please keep us in your prayers as we meet with community leaders here. We are on some thin ice in terms of what all has to happen for this school to become a reality. Only God can make this happen! Marg

Passing the Torch

Today was our last day of teaching. Monday the new teachers start. Two of them stopped by today to sign their contracts and get books and information. Speaking for myself (Marg), I have enjoyed teaching but am glad to turn it over as we transition into other work. Full time teachers here apparently teach just 10 classes a week. Bev and I have been teaching 25 which could explain our tiredness! The heat really makes a difference here, especially at our age. We may also change our living quarters this weekend. Jacob, who owns the house we are staying in, is coming this weekend. This means there will likely be several others coming with him. So we are hoping to go to the Catholic Compound. They are full but if Sister Maureen leaves tomorrow we can have her room. If not, we will see what other options are available. Life here is always unpredictable and interesting. Our director, Philip, has been late returning from vacation visiting his wife and children in Kenya and we have not been able to communicate with him for more than a week. We learned today that he had malaria, was hospitalized, and was unconscience. So we are very glad to know he is feeling better! He probably will not return until next week. It will take his body awhile to gain strength. Please keep us in your prayers as we meet with community leaders here. We are on some thin ice in terms of what all has to happen for this school to become a reality. Only God can make this happen! Marg

Evolution of a School

We have taught for 3 weeks and already are in over our heads in terms of solar system, plant and animal cells, and more. Once division is conquered we will be stretching it in math. So it must be time to turn it over to the real teachers. Tomorrow we will meet with the "finalists" to schedule them to start teaching next week. We have found some of the best teachers in Rumbek. They know their subjects and have much experience teaching in this country. This will free Bev and me up to make some important contacts with other NGOs (non-profits) and government here. We have been told this could be valuable to us. Also, we have been here long enough that we have a reputation - a good one. Our students have told their friends about their school and new students come nearly everyday to register. (But we have closed registration so we can better teach the ones we started with.) And teachers keep coming with resumes because they have heard about our small classes, text books and quality plan. We are feeling very good about what God is doing through this project. Another "evolution" is taking place. The students are organizing, initiating some very positive endeavors. It started with volleyball (netball) tournaments. Then came the election of head boy/girl, secretary, committees, etc. Today they organized for debates, every Friday. They selected a topic and set up a process for two teams of 7 (for and against). This should be fascinating for us to experience! As part of their "reading-writing period" we divided them into groups of 3-5 and selected 7 health issues in South Sudan. Each group took a topic and they are in the process of reporting to the total class. Our plan was for 5 minute presentations but by the time they are done with all the questions and discussion it is more like 40 minutes so this "lesson plan" may take a little longer than planned! We give God thanks for you and your support through reading our blogs. Thanks for staying in touch.

Volleyball Break

This is a photo of the students playing volleyball during break.  They love it and are quite good. 

update and hunger

A new governor was appointed by the President so things are in transition including paychecks. The few that are working support whole extended families. This means that hunger is worse. One of the older women who stays in and around our compound asked us for help on Friday. She does not speak English so our driver translated for us. She is already nothing but skin and bones. It broke our heart. We could not find her yesterday but today on the way to church we saw her again so stopped and gave her 50 pounds (about $12.50). Hunger is just so prevelant here and people do not know from one day to the next if they will have food. It is true of the majority. Update. Bev and I believe this next week will be our last week of actually teaching everyday. We want to start the new teachers. They are really much better at teaching here than we are and we want to give our students every advantage. This will also allow the teachers time to organize the school, deciding on admission criteria, etc. And it will allow Bev and me time to make some contacts here in Rumbek with NGOs who may be able to help us, contractors, governement officials, and more. We have been talking to other volunteers and missionaries who have been working here for years. What we have been able to get done in just 6 weeks is a miracle. Some have been here for years and have been able to get very little done. Part of that is because we have not had to work much with government and also because our non-profit is so new and so small we have no beaurocracy. But mostly because God has made a way. There is still much to do but we are grateful for what God has already done.

Cattle Camp and Coming of Age

This is a photo of some of the young men and women at one of the
cattle camps.  The white in their hair and on their faces is from the
ash of the cow dung fire.  (Bev is on the left; Marg on right)

This is a party for a girl who had her first period - 

a great celebration here with much dancing!

Last night and today we had two new experiences that I wanted to share with you. Yesterday evening Justin, our driver, took us around to some cattle camps. It was fascinating! We saw them before the cows returned and as they were returning. There are little boys, elementary age, teen boys and girls, and a few adults who live and work on these cattle camps. Early in the morning the young boys untie each cow and then drive them all out to the bush where they graze all day. The water is also in the bush, mostly streams. The camp consists of shelters than can be moved when grass lands are consumed. The cow dung becomes critical in these camps. It is the fuel for their fires. Certain people spread the dung around to allow it to dry in the sun. Then it is gathered up in a pile and set on fire. The smell is almost sweet, not something I would expect. The teens then use the ash from these dung fires to color their hair and "paint" their faces and bodies - almost like war paint. The workers at the cattle camps dress different. It is more like what we might imagine shepherds would wear, long dresses or wraps, with a long walking stick (staff). They tend to be very independent and fearless. Some of the children at the camps are able to go to school but many do not either because they do not have time or because there is no school even within walking distance. They tend to be a bit bulkier than the people in town because they drink milk and eat beef. However, bulkier simply means they have shoulder and chest muscles. I have to say that standing and watching these hundreds of cattle walking into the camp, going to the stake they are always tied to, mooing, content...there was a sense of peace and comfort that comes from order and predictability. So while these cattle camps create some violence with cattle stealing, etc. and means many children do not receive an education, I could understand why people choose to be part of them. We took some great pictures and I will send one to Mary who will post it for us. They loved having their pictures taken. One girl kept posing like she was getting her senior photos done. She must have seen some magazines. There were so many cows. I would guess one camp had thousands of cattle - probably $1,000,000 worth of beef! However, in South Sudan it is all about the dowry, not feeding the masses. In between visits to cattle camps Justin took us to Freedom Square (big open space in the "heart" of Rumbek) to see traditional dancing. Ok, that was yesterday. This morning we got a call from Justin that the car was at the mechanic and could we ride a boda boda. We had to get to school and there was no way we could make it before all the students left if we tried to walk the 5 miles so I said, "Sure!" A boda boda (which means border to border) is a motor bike. Here the women always ride side saddle so Bev and I climbed on one of the two boda bodas and hung on for dear life. I was riding behind Bev. One big bump lifted her a couple inches off the seat! By the time we got to school we were so gripped to the bike (and me to the shoulder of the poor guy driving)that we struggeled to get off. A number of students were already there and laughed hard when we arrived. Ellen Cummings had encouraged us to ride a boda boda. Well, Ellen we did! Fortunately, the car was repaired by the time school was over. We were so dusty/dirty from the dirt roads, all of it sticking to our sweating faces and arms. Just another day in South Sudan! Marg

Assembly

This is a picture of our students at Assembly.  It is held every morning.  There is a devotion one of the students does, their appearance is inspected, announcements are made, and we sing the national anthem.

Some Personal Updates

Bev is feeling much better. She was able to go to school on Friday and give her tests. Saturday Uncle Jacob flew into Rumbek for a funeral. He has been staying with us, sharing water that Rebecca brings in for us, and the car and driver. Several others came with him so our routine has changed significantly with house guests. Actaully, it is hard to know who is the guest since this is one of his many homes. He is likely to return later in the month as his daughter is getting married. Funerals here are generally 3 days. They slaughtered 18 cows to feed everyone during that time. None came from his cattle camp but he purchased them. They like to keep their herd large for the dowry. He must have many sons and nephews! Jacob has a nephew wanting to marry so there was some negotiating about cattle. Jacob has a cattle farm about 20 miles from Rumbek. He traveled yesterday to see how he can help his brother. This nephew is the older brother of our driver, Justin. Justin and Rebecca have a little boy together, David, however, they are not allowed to get married until Justin's older brother gets married. So this engagement/arrangment of the older brother was good news for Justin and Rebecca. They are a wonderful couple, not arranged by parents but in love with each other. They live separately now until they are married because they understand that is what their faith requires. Saturday Bev and I had her birthday dinner at Palm Tree, pizza! That evening I walked to the market in town with Rebecca. It is about 2-3 miles each way. I bought a couple of things for Bev and two dresses for myself. I wore one of them Sunday morning to church - very smart! I wanted a dress to wear when I speak to groups about South Sudan and our school. Last evening Bev and I walked around our "county" or the area we live in. We got a bit turned around, no roads just paths, but we found our way back before it got dark! For those of you who do not know me, I have 4 brothers and 2 sisters. Most live in PA. My youngest brother, Andy, was diagnosed with cancer back in the spring. His prognosis was very poor. I knew there was a possibility that he could pass while I was here in Africa and made the decision then I would not return. Andy, died early Friday morning. His memorial service was Sunday afternoon in Clarion, PA. My husband and children were able to be there. Angelo Maker also went to "represent me." It has been difficult to not be there. When you are praying for us please include this loss and God's comfort. Marg

Comboni Day

Today is Comboni Day in Rumbek. He is the Catholic Saint who came to Sudan many years ago to build schools. The school in Rumbek is named for him. It is a community-wide event, even the government was closed. They call the day 10-10 Day because it always falls on Oct. 10. We had "early release". Considering how far the students have to walk it was surprising that even 30 came today for such a short time. Many of them spent more time walking to school than in school. We reviewed some for their tests tomorrow. Several who have been absent stayed to make up some work. Bev did not go to school today because she still is not feeling well. So I had the group by myself and was grateful for a short day. We have no back up plan (substitutes) especially now that Philip is on vacation. Playing it by ear, for sure! Please pray for her and wish her a happy birthday today! Our driver checked with the local police about the possibility of Bev and I getting a driving permit. In South Sudan no one over 58 is allowed to drive. (Ok, I can hear your mental responses to that!) We will ask for an exception for these 2 months we will be here. We will let you know how it goes. Well, have a great 10-10, Comboni Day! Marg

Sorry it has been awhile since I have posted. School days are very full for us, often 12+ hour days. It feels like we never retired. We did some major organization over the weekend and it is paying off this week. There is still more to do but we will get there. The students are patient with us. Philip, our Director, has gone home to Kenya for two weeks so we are on our own. So far so good. Most of the students are in their 20's so we do not have a group of 15 year olds who would like to take advantage of their teachers. That is a great help! Bev is not feeling well today so please pray for her. She appears to have a fever and is taking some antibiotics she brought from home. Tomorrow is her birthday and the students made her cards. You can wish her a happy birthday as well. Tomorrow is also St Comboni Day. The Catholic School here is named for him because he was the first Catholic missionary to this area and his dream was education. It will be a big celebration! Because we are on their property we thought we should honor their day by ending school early. So we will meet for about an hour and then students can stay longer to do make up work, etc. We also plan to have a wee party for Bev - mostly just give her the cards and wish her a happy birthday. We continue to have many student absent due to malaria. I would guess out of our 50 students we have already had 10 have to leave for that reason. Some are out for a few days, others for more than a week. It is hard to help them keep up. When we know about a long absence ahead of time we may be able to take work to them or send it with another student if there is one who lives near them. Some of the students live 5 or more miles from the school. Last night the boys/men who live in our compound told us about a girl who lives just behind us. She tried to hang herself yesterday. Fortunately, the rope broke and she was spared. Her brother would not sign for her to go to school and she was so upset that she just wanted to end it all. She is 21. It is hard for us to understand the importance education plays in the lives of the people here. One student completed his work early today in one of my classes so I took the opportunity to talk to him about his own life. His father died in an accident when he was very young. His only sibling is a bother who is in the military. This student completed primary school but could not afford to go to secondary school. But after 3 years of "just doing nothing" he heard about our school, no fees, and decided to come. He believes God has done this for him. Every day we are blown away by the people here. They have nothing but are so full of joy and hope. The one subject in which they truly excell is CRE, Christian Religious Education. At some point I will share with you some of their faith stories - amazing! Enough for today. Keep us in your prayers, especially Bev. Marg

Abukloi Starts Classes

Hi from another sunny terribly hot humid day in Rumbek. Teaching went fine today, I believe the students began to understand me today. They actually opened to the correct chapter. Hooray!  Agriculture is a trip to teach, since they have no farm equipment except for the very old tools (hoe and slashers). They have Nomadic Pastoral farms which means nobody owns the land and the cattle roam all around and eat wherever they wish. Nomadic farming as the textbook says is seldom done today, but in Rumbek it is the main type of farming.  Today I tried to explain Horticulture. You should have been a fly on the wall. If we just had pictures of farms and equipment etc. it would make teaching much easier, as the students have very little experience with the modern world. I think the closes to the United States is the Rap music they all listen to. Beyonce (spelling may be wrong) is a big hit here, even some posters of her smiling face. So long for now, hope we can figure out how to fix our generator so we can have a couple hours of electricity tonight, which enables to see when we are bathing our of cold water pans. Talk to you all soon. So Long from Rumbek, Bev and Marg. 

Abukloi Starts Classes

Today was quite an interesting day at school. The students took charge of organizing a student conference which included the teachers and Philip the director. It was quite informative, as they wanted to elect a headboy/girl. This student would handle student concerns and be a go between from teachers to students. One student took the lead and gave a political/leadership pitch on the qualifications of a leader. His name is Abraham and he was leading and politiking for the position. He allowed each student to introduce themselves by giving their name and the area they live in. It is amazing how far students walk to get to school by 8AM.  The election will be next Monday.  The students' only request is for the secondary school to have a separate volley ball net from the primary school. Seems like a small request. The students are getting to know one another and 32 students out of 36 came on time to school. The four that were late had to slash the weeds and go to the bore head for water. Maybe 36 students will be on time. They are really abiding by the rules and those who could not have not returned, dropping our numbers from 48 to 36. The 36 seem quite serious about studying to take the exam to enter secondary school in January. To begin the school day there is an assembly time, one student reads scripture and expounds on it and another student prays. This devotion time is followed by announcements.  It is surprising how many volunteers we have to read Scripture and pray. They are really quite good, very well spoken. New students came to day, but I said "no more students, I am too old to cope with new students each day that cannot understand me or vica versa. Plus their skills are so low and I must get them up to par before December. So a meeting of director and teachers, decision was no more new students.  Things otherwise are going well, as we learn to cope with Scorpions and huge grasshoppers (Biblical proportions) in our washing room and bedroom.  We have entertained more bugs in our house than we have ever seen.  This weekend will be one of grading tests and trying to figure out every students name. Maybe we can make name tags. The names are very hard to pronounce.  Well so long for Friday. Thank goodness it is Friday, I will sleep good tonight. The heat was unbearable today. I am wishing for a hard rain to give us some cool.  Bev and Marg

Abukloi Starts Classes

Today was quite an interesting day at school. The students took charge of organizing a student conference which included the teachers and Philip the director. It was quite informative, as they wanted to elect a headboy/girl. This student would handle student concerns and be a go between from teachers to students. One student took the lead and gave a political/leadership pitch on the qualifications of a leader. His name is Abraham and he was leading and politiking for the position. He allowed each student to introduce themselves by giving their name and the area they live in. It is amazing how far students walk to get to school by 8AM.  The election will be next Monday.  The students' only request is for the secondary school to have a separate volley ball net from the primary school. Seems like a small request. The students are getting to know one another and 32 students out of 36 came on time to school. The four that were late had to slash the weeds and go to the bore head for water. Maybe 36 students will be on time. They are really abiding by the rules and those who could not have not returned, dropping our numbers from 48 to 36. The 36 seem quite serious about studying to take the exam to enter secondary school in January. To begin the school day there is an assembly time, one student reads scripture and expounds on it and another student prays. This devotion time is followed by announcements.  It is surprising how many volunteers we have to read Scripture and pray. They are really quite good, very well spoken. New students came to day, but I said "no more students, I am too old to cope with new students each day that cannot understand me or vica versa. Plus their skills are so low and I must get them up to par before December. So a meeting of director and teachers, decision was no more new students.  Things otherwise are going well, as we learn to cope with Scorpions and huge grasshoppers (Biblical proportions) in our washing room and bedroom.  We have entertained more bugs in our house than we have ever seen.  This weekend will be one of grading tests and trying to figure out every students name. Maybe we can make name tags. The names are very hard to pronounce.  Well so long for Friday. Thank goodness it is Friday, I will sleep good tonight. The heat was unbearable today. I am wishing for a hard rain to give us some cool.  Bev and Marg

Hi Everyone, today ends the first week of school and I am ready for Friday. These bones are a little tired getting up before light with a flash light and returning home just as the night sets in.  We had several teacher interviews, now 5 and meetings with contractors for bids on the new school building. Prices have increased in Rumbek, as all supplies have to be transported into the area. We will have to do some serious fund raising when we return.  Finally today I felt I could understand more students and they could understand me. It is amazing the difference in vocabulary and word meanings from the British to the American.  Today in Agriculture class I was trying to explain the art and science of crop and livestock production to a group that knows only to scatter seed or broadcast and hope it grows. They have very few tools and the cattle and goats roam freely all over the residential areas, paths, and roads. interesting to explain that a goat that eats everything and lays in the middle of the road, may not be a very healthy goat. The goats are very malnourished, thin, and scrawny looking. The government needs a lot of help in the area of Agriculture as very few know how to plant crops by planting.  Clearing land, tilling, fertilizing are foreign concepts. We teach with no teacher aides, like pictures, reference materials, libraries and of course no video because there is no electricity.  Fun Fun Fun!  One must really use your imagination and creativity with no art supplies etc.  Tomorrow is the first test, so I will beable to assess if they have learned anything.  Talk again soon, Bev and Marg

Before we left for South Sudan we were told to bring more than one of anything that we must have. So I brought 3 pair of eye glasses (one sun and the other two for inside, reading and distance). Just two weeks into this three month stay the screw came out of the pair I was wearing and I could not find it. No problem, I still had another pair. Today I decided to "bond" with the students by playing a little volleyball. I served and actually got the ball over the net. But then when I was to return a volley it smacked me square in the right eye! There was no damage to me but the lens came out of the glasses. Once the students knew I was not hurt they laughed and told me I was not a very good player - no kidding! I was able to get the glasses repaired this afternoon at an optical place at the market for just $12. Now that I know there is such a place I will have to take my other glasses there to be repaired - just in case. But no more volleyball for me:) Time management is a big issue here - people are always late. So today we started turning students away who were late. Others were "punished", they were made to "slash" the grass for about 15 minutes before they could go to class. It has greatly reduced our numbers because so many are late but it will establish the rule and in the long run benefit everyone. Apparently, when it rains people are more likely to be late. Well, it rained a little last night so that was the excuse. But it does not work for us. Even so we continue to have new students - still a moving target. There is no photocopying here so everything goes on the board - chalk dust everywhere. But we are getting the hang of it and going through a lot of chalk. It was suggested today that we might try dictating rather than having them copy from the board. I may try that tomorrow. It will help everybody get the information in their exercise books at the same rate. Today one of the students asked to go home. He looked very sick and told me he thought he had malaria. That disease is as common here as the flu is in the States. There are injections for it for people who can afford them and it seems to pass quickly for them. Others suffer longer and some die. All in all things are good here. Thanks for reading our blog! Marg

Hunger in South Sudan

This is Marg. Before I came to South Sudan I only knew the Lost Boys and Girls of Sudan. Most of them are tall and all of them are very slender. I mistakenly thought it was their genetic makeup to be tall and thin. What we have discovered here is that height varies and tall is valued. Men still pay dowries for a bride. A tall woman gets more cows than a short woman. I figure at my height I might get a goat! But the weight is not as much genetic as it is related to hunger. Most South Sudanese are very slender, some emaciated. The ones who are not thin either work for the government in a high position or an NGO. The government appointees and NGO folks are the only ones who have enough money to eat well. Eating one meal a day is very typical, especially here in Rumbek. This means that 99% of the people are considered to be suffering from food insecurity. There is no complaining, just accepted as a way of life. Food is very expensive here so most people eat what is in season. Some have small gardens. However, most eat what they can afford at the market. The three "nice" restaurants (have food available without calling first to reserve food)are part of centers for NGOs and near the airport. Without electricity other restaurants cannot refrigerate anything so they only prepare what they know they can sell. The food at the "nice" restaurants (outdoor settings) is twice as expensive as the other restaurants. They are also the ones who serve more western food like pizza and apple pie. NGO are non-government organizations, non-profit groups. It gives the impression to the people living here that NGO's are wealthy. The folks traveling with us have had to explain to people that Bev and I are not like other NGO. We are paying our own way and do not have alot of money. That doesn't not seem to have made a lot of difference. Alas! Well, day three of school went a bit better than yesterday. Students and teachers continue to learn to work together. Some students who came yesterday did not come today. We had a couple of brand new students. Nailing jello to a wall:) But God is good and we just work with whoever sits before us - all precious souls!

We had a full day of classes today and Bev and I are feeling it. We had (I think) 48 students total, so about 24 in each class. We started with "Assembly". Phillip, the Director of Abukloi, led this part because we were not familiar with it. The students stood in two straight lines outside the school. He read from the Bible and talked to them about being Ambassadors for this school and the faith and what that meant. Then he asked for a volunteer to lead in prayer. One of them stepped forward and prayed the Lord's Prayer with the prayer to Mary at the end. He reviewed some of the rules and admonished them to tuck in their shirts - a real must, apparently. We have trouble getting boys to keep their pants above their knees in the US but in South Sudan it is about "tuck". Then we started in the classrooms. Bev gave a math test to evaluate what she needs to teach. I taught English by telling about myself using pictures our daughter Jennifer, had put together for me. Then they were to write 3 sentences about themselves so I could get to know them better. Most of the students' fathers have multiple wives and many children. It was interesting to read about them. Then Bev and I moved on to Geography and Agriculture. We ended the school day with reading a chapter from a book on Florence Nightingale. They were then to write some sentences in response. The students here are very good at copying things from the board into their exercise books and then memorizing all of it but they are not very good at doing anything else. They can do multiple choice and fill in the blanks but not writing their own sentences. One of the things I could use some help with from any of you English or language teachers out there is verb tense. What are effective ways to teach that? Email me at margkutz72@gmail.com We are both really tired. Both yesterday and today are at least 12 hour days and in this heat it is taking its toll. We should sleep well tonight, after we correct exercise books and adapt lesson plans!

Photos From the Leper Colony in Rumbek

We have not posted anything for awhile because we have had computer issues. We did register and test more students last Thursday and Friday. Today they came to receive their exams back, review the class rules, and do a writing assignment. Below are our rules: Classroom Rules Turn off cell phones. No one boy with one girl together. Fighting will result in 2 weeks out of school. Raise your hand to speak. Be on time or you cannot attend school that day. If you are absent bring a letter of excuse. Students only are allowed on the school property (no family or friends). Do not copy other student’s work. Everyone will get 3 pens (blue, black, red). Pens will stay at school, not taken home except one pen for homework. New pens will be given when the ink is empty. Exercise Books will be given to each student. When every page is full a new book will be given. A timetable will be developed for cleaning and slashing. Every student will help. Quizzes will be given often and tests will be given about every two weeks. Students will bring their own cups for drinking. Students will practice good personal hygiene including shaving, clean clothes, and bathing. No braids are allowed. Students will wash hands after using the bathroom. When in the compound speak English only. You might be interested to know that "slashers" are like scickles. We have 3 of them and students use them to cut the grass around the school and a path from the gate. Can you imagine giving high school students sharp objects and telling them to go out and use them?? Thanks for your prayers.

Abukloi Starts Classes

Today was our first long day of teaching and interviewing teachers. We got up at 6:15 and left the school at 6:15PM.  We did interview 5 teachers and now have a slate of 4 teachers to offer contracts to, all university graduates.  We gave out the rules, of which one is to be on time to school or you cannot attend that day.  We will lock the gate at 8:00 which is when school begins.  This morning only seven showed up by 8AM. Hopefully we will have better luck tomorrow. On Sunday we visited a Leper Colony, oh! such poverty. No one should have to live like that. The leprosy has been arrested, but still they are shunned by the community. Ellen. president of  the Board of Directors for Abukloi came with $4000 dollars from her United Methodist Church. Father John from the Catholic compound bought $4000 worth of food for them and hired a truck to deliver it. We went with Father John in his vehicle, what a ride. It stormed the night before and so the roads were flooded.  However the people were so happy to see us and toured us around their village, even showed us their school which they made. They grow their own food and are sponsored by the Catholic Diocese of Rumbek. I will tell you the ride out was horrendous, but we did make it in one piece.  A little boy about 3 took my hand( his name was Ahaserous) and never let go until we started passing out packages of cookies to the 100 plus children living in the colony. Oh the children were excited, cookies are such a treat.  Fifty -five families live in the colony. As the country becomes more educated, hopefully these people will be accepted.  We felt bad eating our rice, liver, beans, and cabbage when we returned to the Catholic Compound. Poverty, like we have never seen before. They danced and praised the Lord for bringing such wonderful gifts from the white people of America.  May we always be as thankful and as faithful believers as we met Sunday. All for now, blessings from Rumbek  Bev and Marg.

L to R:  Dr. Rev. Marg Kutz, Ellen Wicker-Cummings and Bev Nelan

I have had an interesting couple of days so asked Bev if I could blog today. I think we mentioned to you that a woman who lives in the compound with us had a baby Saturday night. Last night they came and got me, asking to secure a car to take her to the hospital. She has "a weak heart". So I made some calls and while the car was coming I took th blood pressure cuff that Edie Higgins gave me and went to their house. They were all very quiet as "Dr. Kutz" attempted to manually take a BP without a stethascope. I think her pressure was high but not dnagerously so. But at least they felt cared for and she did get to the hospital. As far as I know no doctor was there when she got there (actually most of her family went with her, including her breast feeding baby - car was packed)so she is still there today. The family walked hom from the hospital last night around midnight. The baby stayed with her. You may also remember that we wrote about President Kiir coming some time. Well, he came today. The whole town shut down so everybody could be there. The market, schools, and offices were all closed and Freedom Square was packed. I had a carmera with me but was told we could not take pictures. However, one of the Sudanese young men with us, Majok, got me a press pass which allowed me to sit with the press. I was sitting next to a man from the UN. When President Kiir came he told me we could go out on the field and take pictures so up I got and walked out there with all these African men and their professional cameras. There I was looking pretty out of place with a tourist camera. One of the military guys with a big gun said, "Madame?" I showed him my pass. Then he asked where I was from. I told him the US. He asked what organization I was from. I told him Abukloi. He said, "Abukloi?". I quickly went back to me seat with the "press core". I thought, "Majok got me into this I sure hope he can get me out of it!" Anyway, I did get a couple of pictures. It was quite an experience to be there with the people of Rumbek as they welcomed their president. He is Dinka and spoke in that language. This is the first time since he began two years ago to come to Rumbek. He will be here tomorrow as well for meetings.

Photos From Entrance Exam

The weather really cooled off yesterday around noon with the light rain that came and it has continued cooler with some breeze - no complaints. This was the perfect way to greet Ellen Cummings. She arrived today from Juba. Ellen is part of Abukloi and is in South Sudan for 2 months doing a variety of things to help the people. She will be with us for one week so will be here for the first day of school. We continue to visit officials and schools, learning more every time. More lesson plans to write tonight - fun!!! News on the street is that President Silva Kiir will be in Rumbek tomorrow. It should be really wild around here as this is really a big deal. Roads have been improved, tree trunks painted, trash picked up, shops swept. It will be fun to be part of this. Thanks for all your prayers and supports. We are hoping to get some pictures either on this blog or the Abukloi website.

High Maintenance Women

You have heard that when people are such back cooks that they can't even boil water. Well, that could be said of Bev and me. Boiling water means having charcoal and/or wood, a kettle or pot, and the ability to make a small, very hot fire. So this is one of the things Rebecca does for us. She comes in the morning to boil water for us so Bev can have coffee or tea. In addition, Rebecca cooks for us, one meal each day, and fills up the water buckets from the well. We just took on another woman today (Amein, I think is her name) who will do laundry and clean the house for us. We will pay her 1 pound per item, which is about .25 Cleaning is 125 pounds which is around $30. All of this work is done by hand so no easy task. We also have a driver. Now that may seem a little unnecessary until you understand driving in Rumbek. There are no signs and few rules. Fortunately, there is very little traffic here in terms of vehicles but there are goats and cows everywhere. The cows aren't much of a problem as they don't run into traffic but the goats are another story. And if you hit a goat you have to find the owner and negotiate a payment for it. The goal is to give money to the owner and then keep the goat for food. These aren't things Bev and I want to do especially since we do not know the language. So we rent the car, buy the gas, and pay the driver. He is used to getting really good money driving for the NGOs here but we assured him that we are not NGO people, just two retired preachers living on a meager pension. Frankly, once school starts it will take nearly all our time preparing lesson plans, etc. for the students. These other responsibilities that are so easy in the states take considerable time. In addition, the people here could really use the money, even if it is pretty small. Just to keep you up to date - we still do not have running water in the house and probably won't the entire time we are here because we cannot find a good way to get water into the water tank. The motor bike driven by our director was stolen. We hope the police or a church member (it was announced Sunday at church) will find it and return it in good shape. Electricity has returned to Juba - they turned it back on - so we missed that. The electricity here in Rumbek may also be turned on but where we live is not on the line. So we will continue with the generator. Last night it ran out of gas so today we had to get a couple men to come and get it started for us - probably put a little gas in the carberator. Next time I'll do it myself - maybe!!

Poverty

South Sudan is considered the second poorest country in the world. In most countries there are the haves and the have nots, even in 3rd world countries. But here it is the "have little" and "have nothing". The house we are staying in is considered one of the best. It is of good construction with tile floors and roof. It has good secruity with locked doors, concrete fence and razor wire, plumbing, wiring, 4 bedrooms, 2 baths, sitting area and kitchen. But because there is no electricity in the nation and no water system the plumbing and wiring are nearly useless except for when the generator is running which is for most places, including our compound, from 7-11 at night. This is just enough to give you light to go to bed and recharge your technology. Only very few homes have a generator. Angelo described his uncle's house this way, "Mom, don't worry, it is just like the homes here in the US." He forgot to mention no electricity or water. Now those are game changers! Our plumbing is all connected and the leak repaired but we still can't figure out how to get water in the tank. In Juba there were water tank trucks everywhere but we are not aware of any in Rumbek. The only system we know costs $2,000. This would pump water directly from the well but it would not allow it to be pumped. There are many families who come into the compound to get their water so we cannot use that system for oney reasons and simply human issues.

quick update

We are having internet problems and so trouble posting. We tested 36 students on Friday and have them all scored. We now know the exam was too hard but have a better idea where to start. We will test more this next week and then begin classes the 30th. We are doing well. Thanks for the prayers.

We are having internet problems and so trouble posting. We tested 36 students on Friday and have them all scored. We now know the exam was too hard but have a better idea where to start. We will test more this next week and then begin classes the 30th. We are doing well. Thanks for the prayers.

Today, Thursday, we went to the Catholic Compound where our pre-session classes will be held, to receive students' applications. You may remember that the radio employee suggested we might get 3,000 students apply if we didn't limit the way we do this. Well, that didn't happen. We had 19 students come to apply which gives us a total of 32 as some pre-registered. Of those, 2 are female. Tomorrow we will give them their entrance exam. It will help us know what they need in terms of English. This Sunday we are hoping that all 14 churches in Rumbek will announce the information about the school. This will likely reach different people than the radio did and was the suggestion of the Episcopal Bishop. Those students will register NEXT Thursday and take their entrance exam the following day. We plan to start classes Monday, Sept. 30. What surprised us today was the age of the students. Because we asked for students who had completed primary but not currently in secondary school we got older students. The oldest is 32 and the youngest 14 with an average age of 22. Their stories revealed the struggles of the people here. They really want education but poverty keeps getting in the way. Some of them spoke of needing to help with the cattle camp. Those who do that do not go to school. Many of them spoke of the fees of public schools. It was overcast today with some rain off and on which reduced the temperatures and increased the breeze - no complaints here! We know God sent us here with a plan. Please keep praying we follow the Spirit in this!

FROM BEV

Marg and Bev are keeping very busy in Rumbek.  Unfortunately, their WiFi connection is not the best.  Here is a partial update.  We will try to get their problem fixed as soon as possible.

Today we cleaned the classroom with brooms.  Oh my such dirt! We needed a shovel instead of brooms. We bought slashers to cut the weeds.  Everyone has had fun cutting the weeds.  We interviewed another teacher today, a woman who teaches English.  That makes 4 teacher candidates.  We talked with the boys next door who attend secondary school 1 which is our 9th grade. They are 18,19, and 21.  They had to take time off to run the family cattle ranches and are now back in school. They eat one meal a day of okra gumbo, which is a thick paste made with corn mush and they eat it everyday, as that is all the family can afford.  They grow the okra in the field next to the house we are staying in.  It is amazing that Sudanese people eat only once a day about 7pm . . .

Plan B Day

SEPTEMBER 17 - Tuesday was definitely one of those plan B days and a day we learned much about how the Sudanese people adapt to the weather and the government.  We awoke this morning to the sound of wind, rain, and thunder.  The rain continued until nearly noon, raining hard at times.  The roads which are only dirt (not even a bit of gravel) and full of ruts, huge holes and more were even worse.  Our first stop was the Rumbek High School but it closed due to the weather.  So we tried visiting the Commissioners Office but it was closed too.  In the Sates school is generally closed due to bad weather to keep children from coming out but here there is no way to contact them so they walk to school, attendance is  taken, and they are sent home. 

 

With our morning plans foiled we decided to get some breakfast.  While we were there we got a phone call.  You see the President of South Sudan, Kiir, is considering a visit to Rumbek this week so the military and police were going door to door searching for unregistered guns.  Our house was locked and they were going to break in.  One of our "neighbors" called to let us know.  We sent the driver with a key but before he could get there (remember the roads are terrible) they had broken the lock.  We came home and dealt with this. 

 

So much of our time has been spent not on the school but on "survival".  We are wanting to get running water in the house so a contractor has been here this week making that happen.  He was also able to get us in the house and then replace the door mechanism. We are close to having running water.  The plumbing is done but we still need water in the tank.  So tonight we are carrying water and "showering" with a pan and cup.  Actually, we are really getting the hang of it but it will feel very good to stand under that cold water!

Marg

Today we made a significant contact with the Minister of Education and got his blessings.  We also got an announcement on the local radio.  We have changed our plans based on a conversation with the Episcopal Bishop here.  Currently we have 16 applicants (ages 14-30!).  If we still need more applicants we will advertise in the 14 local churches this Sunday.  The Bishop helped us with those contacts.  Thursday potential students are to come to the Catholic Compound to apply.  Then Friday they will return to take the entrance exam. 

Also, Angelo and Moses are helping us create a more comfortable life for ourselves here at Uncle Jacob's compound.  We are trying to get running water and a man came today to give an estimate on doing that.  They have also spoke with a local young woman who will clean and cook for us.  We will pay her which will help her and us.

Speaking of food, most people here eat only once a day.  We asked our driver and he said it is for two reasons.  One is the work involved of gathering fire wood, making the fire, preparing the food and cooking it.  Then washing the dishes is complicated also.  The other reason is lack of money.  When you think about that, it is pretty daunting.  Bev and I are getting used to one meal a day but I have to admit that she is adjusting better than I am.

It is clear here that the women and girls do all the work around the house (carrying water, cooking, washing clothes, cleaning the house, watching the children, shopping, gardening, etc.).  So few men have jobs that you see large groups of them just sitting under the trees playing cards and talking.  The women are starting to notice but it does not seem to be changing.  However, this morning Bev and I noticed that we were washing our clothes and sweeping out the house while Angelo and Moses sat in the cool of the morning and talking.  We apparently have become Sudanese women - but Bob and Oliver should not expect this change to last.

It is difficult to find time to post on the days we are "transitioning".  Yesterday was one of those days so I will briefly fill you in on the last two days.  Yesterday (Saturday) we fly to Rumbek.  The flight was about 3 hours late but we are learning that is more normal than not here.  So we just go with the flow.  Once we arrived there was a group of young Sudanese men who met us at the airport and got our things to Uncle Jacob's Rumbek home.  He has 4 wives and each has a house in a different town.  The wife who was to live here moved to Australia so the house is empty.  It is large with tile floors.  We got the generator working (had to recharge the battery and buy gas).  The generator runs from about 7-11 in the evening which provides lights to get ready for bed and a ceiling fan until the air outside cools off enough to sleep.  There is a plan to complete the plumbing so we can have running water in the house.  At this point our well is pumped and carried from a well on the property.  Getting a shower is an art that we will learn:)  There is no kitchen in the house as the women still prefer the old way of cooking outside.  Bev and I watched the women this morning with their usual chores like washing the dishes and starting the fire.  The fire was started by an older woman smoking a pipe.  It all still so foreign to us but we suspect it will be quite normal by the time we leave in December.

Today we worshipped with an Episcopal and Anglican congregation.  The Episcopal church had at least 1000 in attendance.  We were introduced and given an opportunity to speak.  Angelo translated for us.  We left that service early to attend the Anglican church.  There were about 400 people present, the majority were children.  Again we were introduced and given an opportunity to speak.  This time Moses (another of the Lost Boys here) translated for us.  His brother is a leader in that church.  At one point some of the choir came to the front of the church and jumped up and down to the drums.  Angelo joined them so Bev and I got out there as well and jumped as best we could with bad joints!  I have to say, the crowd went wild!!!

White people are very few here in Rumbek.  The children in particular really stare at us, taking in our face, feet, hands, etc.  They love to shake our hands - it's like a dare to them.  The brave ones start and then the others gradually come forward to touch us.  The older folks are more "composed" with their curiosity.

Tonight we are to meet with the Episcopal Bishop.  The Virginia Episcopalians have a close relationship with them so he knows Angelo.  We want to build relationships with the community leaders so we will know better how the school can best meet their needs.  Many of the ideas we had about the school are changing.  Teacher training is important to the education here so we may try to find ways to do that while we are here.

Our plan is to meet with more leaders and head masters of the schools this week.  Angelo and Moses leave on Saturday to go back to Juba and then the US.  We have a lot of listening to do before then.  Please be in prayer for us that we will listen for what it is that God wants us to do in this place.  The needs are so great and we are so few so we want to do what has already been designed for us.

Josh (choir director at Chester UMC), when the congregation likes what the choir is singing they give money to the choir director by sticking it in her hair or putting a necklace around her neck.  That would be more common in a strip joint in the US but here in South Sudan it is the choir director.  How great is that??!!!

Today Bev and I got up ready to get our bags out and on our way to Rumbek.  There are no flights from Juba to Rumbek until Saturday and we had done most of what we needed to do here in Juba so we thought driving there would give us more time to do the many things we have to do in Rumbek before we can start with the students.  But alas, as is very common here, plan B became plan C.  The car we were going to borrow belongs to a relative of Angelo but this morning he went to the hospital due to very high blood pressure.  Things were complicated in his family so that plan fall apart.  So we took the luggage back to the hotel we had been staying in and fortunately they still had 3 rooms for us.  So this gave us time to go to an internet cafe and catch up with you.

Tomorrow is a "free" day for us.  We hope to visit St. Francis, an Episcopal School here in Juba run by the Episcopalians here and in Great Falls, VA.  We also hope to go to the Juba zoo.  We understand it is an "open range" zoo in which you drive your car.  So many people in the US asked us if we were going to do a safari while we were here.  We told them we were starting a school not tourists.  But we are calling this our safari.

This morning we met with a reporter from Rumbek who was in Juba for a conference.  He suggested rather than advertising for students through the radio that we go to the head masters of the primary schools and ask them to invite several students from their 8th grade to apply to our school.  He said if we use the radio we could get as many as 3,000 students apply - not manageable.  We believe we will take his advice.  He will help us with this process as he knows Rumbek well and is "well connected".  We are learning that is key here.

Keep praying for the school - the selection of students is most important in the next week.

Marg 

Bev and I have arrived!  We are safely in Juba making plans for accommodations and the school.  We now have the curriculum to review and we even got to interview 3 teachers yesterday.  The teachers are male Sudanese and have excellent qualitifications (educational background and experience).  We hope to leave for Rumbek tomorrow via a UN flight.  We hd great direction from Angelo and all his family and friends.  They are very excited about the school in Rumbek.  Keep us in your prayers.

Preparing the Way by Marg Kutz

When I was 18 years old I was recovering from a breakup with a long time boyfriend.  The plans we had made together were over so I was seeking new direction.  It was then that I heard God calling me to teaching mission in Africa.  When I was 19 I dropped out of college to do a year's missionary work in the US.  My call to mission work was confirmed so I returned to college to prepare.  After I graduated I applied for both the Peace Corps and UCC Mission Board.  Both groups suggested I teach in the states for a few years and then apply again.  In the meantime I had me a dashing young man, Bob Kutz, and fell in love and were engaged to be married.  I could not reconcile my call to foreign mission work with my engagement.  Eventually I gave the ring back.  But when God made it clear I was to marry Bob we were married and the call to mission work went on the back burner as I prepared for work as a United Methodist pastor.  Now after 39 years service in the church what never left the back burner has been moved to the front burner.  I leave Sunday for South Sudan to start a secondary school for 90 ninth graders.

I am so grateful to God for allowing me this privilege to serve in this way.  While I certainly would have had much more physical stamina when I was 25 I feel everything in my 65 years has prepared me for this divine adventure/promise.

Please follow our blog as Bev Nelan and I both fulfill childhood calls to mission work in Africa.

Meet Our Teachers!

Abukloi is sending two U.S. teachers to Rumbek to organize and teach  9th grade this September through December, officially opening the Abukloi School.  While there, they hope to hire two local teachers to take over teaching responsibilities in January.  South Sudan has the lowest literacy rate in the world and has fought long and hard sacrificing many lives to be a free independent nation.  Please pray for Abukloi and  become a financial partner with us. If we can find 100 partners willing to give $25 a month we can survive.  Join us today.

REV. DR. MARGARET KUTZ

Rev. Dr. Margaret Kutz (or “Dr. Mom” as the Lost Boys call her) graduated with a Bachelors degree in education and taught in the public school for several years before going to seminary.  During her nearly 40 years in ordained ministry, she taught children, youth and adults in many settings, adapting her style to accommodate the students’ needs .  While serving a church in the Washington D.C. area she initiated and directed a school for ESL (English as Second Language) to help adults learn English.  Many people consider her a gifted teacher, a natural.  She is excited and humbled to be part of the Abukloi School.

BEVERLY NELAN

Bev Nelan has earned a B.S. in Special  Education, a M.A. in Education, plus an additional 35 hours of graduate work in Administration and Management, a Reading specialist Certification and a Course of Study Certificate in Theology from  Duke University.  Her 48 years of experience have taken her to many  U.S. States and other countries in the fields of Education, training soldiers with the Department of Defense and as local pastor for the United Methodist Church.  She has served as an elementary  and middle school  teacher; special education teacher with the Learning Disabled and emotionally disturbed, English as a Second Language teacher and a reading specialist. She has been the Reading Director for Eighth Army, Korea; Deputy Director of Training for Combat Service Support, Army; Principal of Seoul International School, Korea; and  pastor of three local churches in Virginia.  Bev believes she has been called by God to begin a secondary school in Rumbek, South Sudan. “After hearing Angelo Maker’s story of the Lost Boys of Sudan, I felt the call to go to South Sudan and with God leading the way to make a difference in Rumbek.”