Monday, September 22

I was delighted to see Mendazi on the breakfast serving table one more time before I leave!

I spent the morning packing.  At 11:00 Philip Job called to report that 1/2 of the Baylake Patient Shelter had a concrete floor, and he wanted me to see it before I left.  Justin took me over on boda boda, and I am happy to report that he seems to be fully recovered.  What a thrill to see half the shelter complete - roof, walls, and now floor!

From there I paid one last visit to the school, met with the student leaders, received necklace, bracelets, and gorgeous monogrammed top sheet and pillow case - all made by the female students.  I was close to tears.  I spoke briefly to the two classes in session, thanking them for their hospitality, encouraging them to continue the exemplary work they have begun, and assuring them of the support of the Abukloi Board in the U.S.  

I skipped lunch to attend to Internet and am glad I did.  After an hour and a half, Justin rode up with the news that my presence was requested at the office of the chairman of the Community Development Committee.  I was a long way from finished, but packed up and attended the meeting.  Afterward I tried to complete reports, etc., but clouds had gathered and rain was imminent.  Justin and I made it back to Pan Door minutes ahead of the rain.

My check-in time at the airport is 10:00 am.  Harvesters Terekeka called to confirm arrival date and time.  Loki will meet my flight - wonderful news!

Sunday, September 21

Saturday, September 20

Rain wreaks havoc with Internet and phone service in this part of the world.  Last night I got a text message from Justin saying he would pick me up at 9:30 this morning.  The only problem was this message was for yesterday (Friday) and had been sent Thursday night.  By the time Justin arrived at 10:30, I had figured out what was going on.  By mutual consent, he will call from now on - no more text messages.  If he doesn't reach me, at least he will know it.

There are two delightful and impressive twenty-somethings temporarily housed at Pan Door. Ben and Candacia will be working for the Loreto School for the next three years.  If you don't remember about the Loreto schools from e-mails last year, do a Google search.  Candacia hails from Guyana but was educated in the U.S.  Ben is a citizen of the world, the son of missionaries who have served all over.  

The food at Pan door is good, it's just the same every day.  There can be some variety at dinner, but lunch  never varies - posho, beef & gravy, rice, greens, beans - ev-ery day!  Today after choking down yet another plate of greens, beef and gravy, Ben offered me an orange - fresh from the market - juicy and sweet - the perfect antidote to a heavy meal.  I thanked him profusely!  Nothing ever tasted so good.

I missed my nap and swim.  Justin and I had a lengthy meeting in an attempt to wrap up details concerning my time here and what still needs to be done.  My ticket to leave Tuesday a.m. has been purchased.  

Attached are photos of Pan Door, a local dwelling, and a local borehole.

Friday, September 19

Following a satisfying breakfast of Mendazi and African tea, Justin and I left for Rumbek Secondary School.  The head teacher was in Juba, so we met with the next in command to discuss issues both schools have in common and to affirm and encourage each other.  Rumbek Secondary has an enrollment of 1300 and all the challenges that accompany a school that large.  The building itself dates back to the 1940s and was built by missionaries during colonization.  Justin attended Rumbek Secondary School.

While in the area, we made a swing through Akuac before heading to Abukloi school.  Bread and tea were being served, several male students were playing football - soccer - and I took some more photos of students who were absent yesterday.  

After checking e-mail at Hillview, we stopped at a cattle camp on the way back to Pan Door.  These are long horned steers - pretty docile unless provoked - and I wasn't about to do any provoking.  Cattle go pretty much where they want to go, and Justin and I frequently make our way on boda boda, inching through all these horns, actually brushing the flanks of the cows, as we and the cattle negotiate the same roads.  

What a lazy afternoon!  I awoke from my siesta to the sound of rain on metal roof and an unbelievably cool breeze that demanded immediate cover.   I reached for the spread I never expected to use, and, for the next hour, floated in that never-never land between dreams and consciousness.  At 4:15 I forced myself up, wondering if I would be able to sleep tonight.

Umbrella in hand, I walked right on schedule.  Pan Door has a series of raised walking paths  - perfect for getting around the property.  Pleasant, cool evening...

Wednesday, September 18

Back to white bread, butter, and jam for breakfast - oh well - it makes me appreciate bananas, papaya, and mendazi all the more!

The picture taking process at the Abukloi school was a huge success!  It took some time to find the right spot to photograph all these dark faces so the features could be illuminated.  Finally we decided to place the students in front of an outside wall facing the sun, with Mama Ellen standing in a chair elevated slightly higher than the students - my back to the sun.  

The process went relatively quickly considering the number of students, but I stood in the hot sun way too long.  Sweat stung my eyes and dripped off my chin.  When I finally finished, the students sat me in a chair in the shade and fanned while I drank a bottle of water.  

The South Sudanese have lovely, engaging smiles, but put a camera in front of them and those smiles quickly disappear.  They seem to think a picture calls for a serious, somber expression.  Coaxing smiles was like pulling teeth.  Finally the students made a game of it, standing behind me chanting "da-le, da-le," Dinka for smile, then falling into hysterics when the person being photographed finally broke into a smile.  It was a fun morning - just way too hot for this Kawaja to be standing in the sun .

Lunch is served at 1:00 - always tasty but hot and heavy - potatoes, rice, or posho, beef and gravy and something green.  The combination of heat and heavy food call for a nap around 2:00 - the hottest part of the day.  The swim at Hillview is nice at 5:00, when surrounding buildings block the sun. I usually have the pool to myself.  Sometimes there are men in skimpy suits lounging around with a cold beverage.  I have yet to see any females.

Early mornings and evenings are usually pleasant - the time I try and take a 10-minute walk around the Pan Door property.  I do my own laundry, work on a Bible study - the days and nights are pretty full.

Wednesday, September 17

Fresh papaya for breakfast - along with African bread and tea - a great way to start the day!  Justin and I were literally all over the map today with visits to an Indian farm, Rumbek University, Abukloi school, a Dinka farmer, the Abukloi land, and finally back to Hillview for Internet and a swim.  I'm having Internet challenges and am grateful to Carin Gregory for all her assistance in my efforts to communicate.

The heat intensified with the progress of the day, clouds gathered, and as I left the pool, a light rain began to fall complete with rainbow.  Justin and I waited for a lull, and barely made it back to Pam Door before the bottom fell out.  This is the first rain since I've been here.  As South Sudan moves toward the dry season, rains will be farther and farther apart.

Tomorrow is picture day at Abukoi school.  A supporter at Centreville UMC in Northern VA has an idea for a fund raiser and needs individual photos of all the students.  It will be a busy morning!

I have appreciated your responses, prayers and good wishes!

Blessings,

Mama Ellen

Photos: (Top) Students having a mid-morning snack.

(Bottom) The pool at Hillview Hotel in Rumbek.

Tuesday, September 16

(This email has been transcribed from a voicemail. Please excuse errors. CG)

 

Everyone enjoyed a special treat for breakfast this morning - Menbazi, a slightly sweet, fried pastry which puffs up during the cooking process, leaving a hollow center similar to a popover… Really nice with African tea. Breakfast at Pan Ngoth can be as sparse as white bread with butter and jam. So anything different – like the bananas yesterday – is noted and appreciated.  

 

Justin and I had a bit of a dustup this morning. He was supposed to have me at Abukloi at 10:00, so I was ready at 9:45. When he finally showed up at 10:15, I was not a happy camper. We worked through the morning; but when I pressed him about a time to expect him later this afternoon, he responded, “We have a problem with time management in this country.“  Don’t I know it! And as far as Justin is concerned, the problem could very well be mine and not his. This is typical of Africa and the most infuriating aspect of life in this country that I have to deal with. I’ll manage.

 

The vast majority of those who live in Rumbek subsist right at the poverty level. This includes the students at the Abukloi School. They eat one meal a day, and then not very much. So they show up for class at 8:30 having had no breakfast and many having walked up to five miles. There is also no lunch. In discussing this situation with teachers yesterday, I decided to provide a mid-morning snack while I am here.  For $300 these students can have two pieces of bread, about the size of both halves of a hamburger bun, and tea for five days.  Many of you were incredibly generous in your monetary support. Please know that part of that support will provide nourishment for students at my school. Did I do the right thing? I don’t know, as the food will stop as soon as I leave. But it felt like the right thing to do.

 

Last year I learned that there is a swimming pool here in Rumbek. Philip, who knew I like to swim, asked if I had brought my costume.  Unfortunately, I had left the costume in Juba, never dreaming I would have an opportunity to use it in Rumbek.  This trip I came prepared. Costume in hand, Justin and I went to the pool at the Hillview Hotel by the airport. A photo will be provided when I’m able to access email.  As you will be able to see, this is an extremely nice pool by any standards - roughly 50’ x 25’ as I walked it off. It felt more like bath water than the pool I’m used to in Virginia Beach, but I am certainly not going to complain.

 

Hillview is one of the nicer lodging options available in Rumbek.  Rooms are cottage-style – four to a block with television, Internet and air conditioning.  There’s a workout room and nice restaurant.  A room with full board – breakfast, lunch and dinner is $120 America dollars per day. Not too bad, actually.

 

And, I’m happy to report that Justin was right on time.

 

The most amazing salad was served at dinner tonight. I don’t know if it was that it was so delectable or just a welcome change from beans, rice and mainly hot food…  Fresh tomatoes, cucumber, onion, avocado, and a leaf of green that tasted like cilantro tossed with fresh lemon juice – so refreshing! I had three helpings and scraped the last little bit out of the serving bowl. Absolutely outstanding!   

 

I also enjoyed a spectacular light show in the Western sky. There were considerable clouds in the late afternoon and rain in the distance.  Walking toward the dining hall at 7:30, I was visually struck by the lightning, which continued for several hours.  Thunder sent these amazing flashes outlining the big clouds.

 

Hope all is well.

 

Blessings,

Mama Ellen

Photos of Abukloi School and Rumbek

Monday 9/15: First Day of New Term

(This email has been transcribed from a voicemail. Please excuse errors. CG)

 

Bananas for breakfast.  I ate two.

 

Yesterday at ECS, I arranged with Phillip Job, the Director of Relief and Rehabilitation, to go over to the Government Hospital, leaving his office at 9:00 am.  Just in the Abukloi direction was the first pick-me-up on the waiting boda boda at8:45. At 8:55, I left him a note taped to my door, flagged the boda myself and got to the R&R office mostly on time.

 

When I first visited the Government Hospital in Rumbek in 2012, patients had overflowed the hospital building and were lying on mats on the ground.  Over two years, my church in Virginia Beach, Baylake UMC, has provided a patient shelter to help accommodate the overflow - first a roof, then walls. Today I brought $3,000 in donations for a concrete floor.

 

Mr. Job took me to the hospital in his air-conditioned Land Cruiser. I had almost stopped sweating by the time we got there.  Unbeknownst to me, the patient shelter had been extended, and the additional area is used as an OR, where 50 women with vesico vaginal fistulas were treated last month.  Because females have babies at such young ages, their pelvic areas are too small for normal delivery.  Most give birth in the bush. Cesarean deliveries are non-existent. Many die. Others that survive typically sustain damage that results in constant urine leakage.  Because of the odor, they are shunned.  The fistula repair is a life-changing procedure for these women, but what an arena for surgery to take place.  

 

I spent the rest of the morning at the Abukloi School.  This was the first day of the term. Because of the unrest, only half the students were present. If calm continues, everyone should return by the end of the week.  I will be on hand every morning between 10:30 and 11:30 to meet with students and teachers.  Justin is scheduling meetings with various community committees and advisory groups.  

 

Oh, the heat!  It’s just draining! After being out in the hottest part of the day, I drank a bottle of water, went to bed with my battery-operated fan and slept. I better understand siestas after spending time in South Sudan.

 

I had hoped for a swim later today, but Justin had a soccer game.  Maybe tomorrow.

 

I apologize for the lack of pictures.  I’m having difficulty with Internet. As soon as I’m able to get a reliable connection, I’ll try to catch up on the pictures.

 

Blessings,

Mama Ellen

Saturday and Sunday 9/13-14

(This email has been transcribed from a voicemail. Please excuse errors. CG)

Saturday pm, September 13, 2014

 

It’s such a comfortable feeling to have spent enough time in another country to be able to wander around freely, not needing a guide and dropping in on friends from previous visits.

 

Yesterday, late afternoon, I walked next door to the Pan Ngoth Compound, Missionary Charity Sisters, expecting to see Sister Ann Mario, as I had done on previous visits to Rumbek. Imagine my disappointment that she had been transferred to Nairobi. I wish her well.

 

A bit farther around the corner, I did find Katarina at home in her NGO(?)  from Italy - a Roman Catholic nun. I don't even know her last name, but we enjoy a cup of tea once a year.  Blessings on your work, Katarina.

 

Terrific chapatti for dinner tonight!

 

Sunday, September 14, 2014

 

Up early for 8:30 service at ECS. There has been unrest in Rumbek of late – fighting, shooting and killing of innocent people.  The service today – music, Scripture, liturgy and sermon was all about peace, brotherly love and forgiveness. The people of South Sudan are weary of violence and wondering when it will ever end so they can live in peace without fear.  

 

The sermon was interrupted midway when a man walked in off the street, proceeded to one of (the chairs?) and demanded money. Various people handed over small bills as others tried to coax him away. Finally he left, and the sermon continued.

 

I had taken a boda boda to ECS earlier; and when the service was over, I walked back to the road to flag another ride, calling out, “Boda boda!”  As motorbikes passed, one fella stopped and said, “Madame, I am not boda boda, but I will assist you.” It turns out he was Andrew, with some connection to Abukloi School.

 

Can you see God’s prevenient grace, just in the past 24 hours?

1.          The young man who assisted me at the Juba airport,
2.          Marco Marjon, who just happened to be at the Rumbek Airport when I landed, and
3.          Andrew, riding past ECS just as the service ended.

 

I spent an hour or so at the market this afternoon – batteries, washcloths, extra towels, etc.  Pan Ngoth doesn’t provide washcloths, and one towel per guest is doled out once at the beginning of the stay.  I also bought a new pillow. The one I had rested on last night was old, hard and extremely uncomfortable. My neck hurt all night, and I got very little sleep. The new one is a little better.

 

No chapatti in 24 hours! I've been assured it will be served tomorrow.

 

Blessings,

Mama Ellen

Saturday, September 13

(This text was transcribed from Ellen's phone message. The recorded sound was somewhat distorted so parts of this message were difficult to understand. I apologize for any errors. CG)
 

I had breakfast at the James Hotel, again. It’s just too difficult to get to CCC early in the morning, then back to the Guest House to collect luggage, and on to the airport.

 

I’d been told to check in for my flight to Rumbek at 9:00 am, but Edison and I left at 8:30. There was a queue outside the terminals designated for Rumbek, so I got in line. 35 minutes later, I began to inquire about check-in status. 9:45 am, I was still standing in line. I stopped one very tall young man, who decided to take me under his wing. It was understood that he would expect some monetary reward in return, which, at this point, I was happy to provide.

 

Leaving the queue, I followed the tall man into the terminal and stood where he indicated. 10:00 am, he took my passport and ticket and checked me in. I followed him to baggage check, and we watched as my bag was weighed, x-rayed, placed on the conveyor and rolled out the window. Ten South Sudanese pounds later, I was checked-in, and he was on his way.  Money well spent!

 

Noon lift-off on Push(?) Air – not exactly the Cadillac of air travel but safe and reliable.

 

After landing at the Rumbek Airport, I ran into Marco Marjon of Rumbek University, who arranged with a colleague to take me to Plangor -  and in an air-conditioned car, no less – where I am settled into a nice, (indiscernible description) room with bath.

 

This is an official visit for Abukloi, my NGO. I have met with the in-country director, and we planned(?) the itinerary for the next ten days - contacts, meetings and travel. There’s a lot to be done.

 

I’m looking forward to church tomorrow at the ECS (Episcopal Church of Sudan) and then on to the market.

 

Hope all is well.

 

Mama Ellen

September 12 - Part 2

My challenge for today was two-fold:  change American dollars into South Sudanese pounds (easily accomplished), and try and switch providers for my phone so I can use it here for the next 10 weeks.  Four hours later - mission accomplished - but what an ordeal!

My driver, Edison, took me to the Vivacell corporate office where two employees tried every trick in their arsenal of options to no avail.  It seemed we needed to drive over to Juba Town and locate someone named "Abdullah," who operated a store that sold bottled water, and he should be able to help us.  Abdullah was stymied, as well, but had a friend he recommended.  The friend was called who agreed to come right over.  Thirty minutes later said friend was contacted again - this time he really was on the way.  

Meanwhile, Edison and I watched as a steady stream of customers came and went - precious bottles of water in hand.  We drank a couple ourselves.

Friend finally arrived, but was no more help than the first three gentlemen.  But if we would follow him to the establishment of Yagoub - just down the street - he was certain we would find success - and we  did!  I now have a working South Sudan phone #.  If anyone needs/desires the #, call Ned.

I have ticket in hand for my flight to Rumbek tomorrow morning.  Lots to do in ten days for the Abukloi NGO.  I've been warned that I'll need to be on my "A game."  No pressure...

I'm really bummed about one thing.  Dr. Mac Brown, retired professor of early childhood education, gave me four sets of four "Big Books" to use while I am in South Sudan in teaching reading to children at Terekeka, and to pass around in Juba and Rumbek.  When I opened my checked luggage, only one set was there.  I am relieved to have still have one set, but disappointed and aggravated that these teaching tools were pilfered.  

Mama Ellen

Ellen's Trip to Rumbek: September 12, 2014 - Part 1

There is nothing that says, "Welcome to Africa," as effectively as chapati and greens!  This round, flat, fried bread - hot off the griddle - is "to die for" - and the perfect accompaniment to African greens.  I would say chapti is the equivalent of hot corn bread - dripping with butter - in the deep South.  There was also chicken stewed in savory broth and rice for dinner last night - but my focus was chapati and greens!

I slept well after no sleep in 48 hours.  My queen-sized bed at the CCC Guest House has a new mattress - luxuriously comfortable!  Encased in a mosquito net, my laundry spread over the top to dry, I was protected and comfortable.  No need for as much as a sheet, but with windows open and good screens, it wasn't bad at all.  

I awoke at 5:00 to roosters crowing, and enjoyed the early morning quiet before generators start their necessary racket.  Lights and water for showers depend on the noisy generators, so until they are turned on, there's no need for me to get up as I can't do a thing .

At 8:00 a.m. I walked just up the street to the James Hotel, one of the new, luxury "home away from home" options in Juba.  In air-conditioned comfort, I enjoyed the breakfast buffet - Spanish, omelet, link sausage, stewed plantain, crepes, mixed vegetables, and wonderful African tea.  There was also fresh fruit ( I took a banana for later) fried chicken, and other foods I didn't recognize.  

Curious about this new hotel, I was given permission to wander around.  The James is five stories -with elevators - built around an open courtyard.  Each room has a balcony.  The fifth floor is a complete open-air bar and restaurant called the Terrace Lounge with the most amazing view.  Never having been up this high in Juba, I had no idea the distant vista could be so lovely.  It actually took my breath!  Rooms run from $165 - $180 American D, and you would not be disappointed in the amenities offered at the James!

I could have joined Cathy Groenendijk at CCC for breakfast, but two things were holding me back:  1) I wasn't sure about the time breakfast was served, and 2) there is the problem is "getting there."  The CCC Guest House is on the other side of a very busy, conjested, "take hour life in your hands," no traffic lights or stop signs and  no rules city block - from the main facility where the girls live and where I stayed last year.

I will take a boda boda in Juba only if a CCC guard chooses the driver, negotiates the price, and puts the fear of the Almighty in him of anything happens to me along the way.  Juba isn't Rumbek or Yei!  There is a back way in, but - if anything - it's more dangerous for me than the way I just described.  It's necessary to descend a steep, rock-strewn path into a gulley, ford a small, shallow "river" stepping on stones, then climb up the other side.  And folks, I'm not going to do it!  I'll take my chances with the boda boda - it's more fun!

Mama Ellen