Monday, September 22

I was delighted to see Mendazi on the breakfast serving table one more time before I leave!

I spent the morning packing.  At 11:00 Philip Job called to report that 1/2 of the Baylake Patient Shelter had a concrete floor, and he wanted me to see it before I left.  Justin took me over on boda boda, and I am happy to report that he seems to be fully recovered.  What a thrill to see half the shelter complete - roof, walls, and now floor!

From there I paid one last visit to the school, met with the student leaders, received necklace, bracelets, and gorgeous monogrammed top sheet and pillow case - all made by the female students.  I was close to tears.  I spoke briefly to the two classes in session, thanking them for their hospitality, encouraging them to continue the exemplary work they have begun, and assuring them of the support of the Abukloi Board in the U.S.  

I skipped lunch to attend to Internet and am glad I did.  After an hour and a half, Justin rode up with the news that my presence was requested at the office of the chairman of the Community Development Committee.  I was a long way from finished, but packed up and attended the meeting.  Afterward I tried to complete reports, etc., but clouds had gathered and rain was imminent.  Justin and I made it back to Pan Door minutes ahead of the rain.

My check-in time at the airport is 10:00 am.  Harvesters Terekeka called to confirm arrival date and time.  Loki will meet my flight - wonderful news!

Sunday, September 21

Saturday, September 20

Rain wreaks havoc with Internet and phone service in this part of the world.  Last night I got a text message from Justin saying he would pick me up at 9:30 this morning.  The only problem was this message was for yesterday (Friday) and had been sent Thursday night.  By the time Justin arrived at 10:30, I had figured out what was going on.  By mutual consent, he will call from now on - no more text messages.  If he doesn't reach me, at least he will know it.

There are two delightful and impressive twenty-somethings temporarily housed at Pan Door. Ben and Candacia will be working for the Loreto School for the next three years.  If you don't remember about the Loreto schools from e-mails last year, do a Google search.  Candacia hails from Guyana but was educated in the U.S.  Ben is a citizen of the world, the son of missionaries who have served all over.  

The food at Pan door is good, it's just the same every day.  There can be some variety at dinner, but lunch  never varies - posho, beef & gravy, rice, greens, beans - ev-ery day!  Today after choking down yet another plate of greens, beef and gravy, Ben offered me an orange - fresh from the market - juicy and sweet - the perfect antidote to a heavy meal.  I thanked him profusely!  Nothing ever tasted so good.

I missed my nap and swim.  Justin and I had a lengthy meeting in an attempt to wrap up details concerning my time here and what still needs to be done.  My ticket to leave Tuesday a.m. has been purchased.  

Attached are photos of Pan Door, a local dwelling, and a local borehole.

Friday, September 19

Following a satisfying breakfast of Mendazi and African tea, Justin and I left for Rumbek Secondary School.  The head teacher was in Juba, so we met with the next in command to discuss issues both schools have in common and to affirm and encourage each other.  Rumbek Secondary has an enrollment of 1300 and all the challenges that accompany a school that large.  The building itself dates back to the 1940s and was built by missionaries during colonization.  Justin attended Rumbek Secondary School.

While in the area, we made a swing through Akuac before heading to Abukloi school.  Bread and tea were being served, several male students were playing football - soccer - and I took some more photos of students who were absent yesterday.  

After checking e-mail at Hillview, we stopped at a cattle camp on the way back to Pan Door.  These are long horned steers - pretty docile unless provoked - and I wasn't about to do any provoking.  Cattle go pretty much where they want to go, and Justin and I frequently make our way on boda boda, inching through all these horns, actually brushing the flanks of the cows, as we and the cattle negotiate the same roads.  

What a lazy afternoon!  I awoke from my siesta to the sound of rain on metal roof and an unbelievably cool breeze that demanded immediate cover.   I reached for the spread I never expected to use, and, for the next hour, floated in that never-never land between dreams and consciousness.  At 4:15 I forced myself up, wondering if I would be able to sleep tonight.

Umbrella in hand, I walked right on schedule.  Pan Door has a series of raised walking paths  - perfect for getting around the property.  Pleasant, cool evening...

Wednesday, September 18

Back to white bread, butter, and jam for breakfast - oh well - it makes me appreciate bananas, papaya, and mendazi all the more!

The picture taking process at the Abukloi school was a huge success!  It took some time to find the right spot to photograph all these dark faces so the features could be illuminated.  Finally we decided to place the students in front of an outside wall facing the sun, with Mama Ellen standing in a chair elevated slightly higher than the students - my back to the sun.  

The process went relatively quickly considering the number of students, but I stood in the hot sun way too long.  Sweat stung my eyes and dripped off my chin.  When I finally finished, the students sat me in a chair in the shade and fanned while I drank a bottle of water.  

The South Sudanese have lovely, engaging smiles, but put a camera in front of them and those smiles quickly disappear.  They seem to think a picture calls for a serious, somber expression.  Coaxing smiles was like pulling teeth.  Finally the students made a game of it, standing behind me chanting "da-le, da-le," Dinka for smile, then falling into hysterics when the person being photographed finally broke into a smile.  It was a fun morning - just way too hot for this Kawaja to be standing in the sun .

Lunch is served at 1:00 - always tasty but hot and heavy - potatoes, rice, or posho, beef and gravy and something green.  The combination of heat and heavy food call for a nap around 2:00 - the hottest part of the day.  The swim at Hillview is nice at 5:00, when surrounding buildings block the sun. I usually have the pool to myself.  Sometimes there are men in skimpy suits lounging around with a cold beverage.  I have yet to see any females.

Early mornings and evenings are usually pleasant - the time I try and take a 10-minute walk around the Pan Door property.  I do my own laundry, work on a Bible study - the days and nights are pretty full.

Wednesday, September 17

Fresh papaya for breakfast - along with African bread and tea - a great way to start the day!  Justin and I were literally all over the map today with visits to an Indian farm, Rumbek University, Abukloi school, a Dinka farmer, the Abukloi land, and finally back to Hillview for Internet and a swim.  I'm having Internet challenges and am grateful to Carin Gregory for all her assistance in my efforts to communicate.

The heat intensified with the progress of the day, clouds gathered, and as I left the pool, a light rain began to fall complete with rainbow.  Justin and I waited for a lull, and barely made it back to Pam Door before the bottom fell out.  This is the first rain since I've been here.  As South Sudan moves toward the dry season, rains will be farther and farther apart.

Tomorrow is picture day at Abukoi school.  A supporter at Centreville UMC in Northern VA has an idea for a fund raiser and needs individual photos of all the students.  It will be a busy morning!

I have appreciated your responses, prayers and good wishes!

Blessings,

Mama Ellen

Photos: (Top) Students having a mid-morning snack.

(Bottom) The pool at Hillview Hotel in Rumbek.

Tuesday, September 16

(This email has been transcribed from a voicemail. Please excuse errors. CG)

 

Everyone enjoyed a special treat for breakfast this morning - Menbazi, a slightly sweet, fried pastry which puffs up during the cooking process, leaving a hollow center similar to a popover… Really nice with African tea. Breakfast at Pan Ngoth can be as sparse as white bread with butter and jam. So anything different – like the bananas yesterday – is noted and appreciated.  

 

Justin and I had a bit of a dustup this morning. He was supposed to have me at Abukloi at 10:00, so I was ready at 9:45. When he finally showed up at 10:15, I was not a happy camper. We worked through the morning; but when I pressed him about a time to expect him later this afternoon, he responded, “We have a problem with time management in this country.“  Don’t I know it! And as far as Justin is concerned, the problem could very well be mine and not his. This is typical of Africa and the most infuriating aspect of life in this country that I have to deal with. I’ll manage.

 

The vast majority of those who live in Rumbek subsist right at the poverty level. This includes the students at the Abukloi School. They eat one meal a day, and then not very much. So they show up for class at 8:30 having had no breakfast and many having walked up to five miles. There is also no lunch. In discussing this situation with teachers yesterday, I decided to provide a mid-morning snack while I am here.  For $300 these students can have two pieces of bread, about the size of both halves of a hamburger bun, and tea for five days.  Many of you were incredibly generous in your monetary support. Please know that part of that support will provide nourishment for students at my school. Did I do the right thing? I don’t know, as the food will stop as soon as I leave. But it felt like the right thing to do.

 

Last year I learned that there is a swimming pool here in Rumbek. Philip, who knew I like to swim, asked if I had brought my costume.  Unfortunately, I had left the costume in Juba, never dreaming I would have an opportunity to use it in Rumbek.  This trip I came prepared. Costume in hand, Justin and I went to the pool at the Hillview Hotel by the airport. A photo will be provided when I’m able to access email.  As you will be able to see, this is an extremely nice pool by any standards - roughly 50’ x 25’ as I walked it off. It felt more like bath water than the pool I’m used to in Virginia Beach, but I am certainly not going to complain.

 

Hillview is one of the nicer lodging options available in Rumbek.  Rooms are cottage-style – four to a block with television, Internet and air conditioning.  There’s a workout room and nice restaurant.  A room with full board – breakfast, lunch and dinner is $120 America dollars per day. Not too bad, actually.

 

And, I’m happy to report that Justin was right on time.

 

The most amazing salad was served at dinner tonight. I don’t know if it was that it was so delectable or just a welcome change from beans, rice and mainly hot food…  Fresh tomatoes, cucumber, onion, avocado, and a leaf of green that tasted like cilantro tossed with fresh lemon juice – so refreshing! I had three helpings and scraped the last little bit out of the serving bowl. Absolutely outstanding!   

 

I also enjoyed a spectacular light show in the Western sky. There were considerable clouds in the late afternoon and rain in the distance.  Walking toward the dining hall at 7:30, I was visually struck by the lightning, which continued for several hours.  Thunder sent these amazing flashes outlining the big clouds.

 

Hope all is well.

 

Blessings,

Mama Ellen

Photos of Abukloi School and Rumbek

Monday 9/15: First Day of New Term

(This email has been transcribed from a voicemail. Please excuse errors. CG)

 

Bananas for breakfast.  I ate two.

 

Yesterday at ECS, I arranged with Phillip Job, the Director of Relief and Rehabilitation, to go over to the Government Hospital, leaving his office at 9:00 am.  Just in the Abukloi direction was the first pick-me-up on the waiting boda boda at8:45. At 8:55, I left him a note taped to my door, flagged the boda myself and got to the R&R office mostly on time.

 

When I first visited the Government Hospital in Rumbek in 2012, patients had overflowed the hospital building and were lying on mats on the ground.  Over two years, my church in Virginia Beach, Baylake UMC, has provided a patient shelter to help accommodate the overflow - first a roof, then walls. Today I brought $3,000 in donations for a concrete floor.

 

Mr. Job took me to the hospital in his air-conditioned Land Cruiser. I had almost stopped sweating by the time we got there.  Unbeknownst to me, the patient shelter had been extended, and the additional area is used as an OR, where 50 women with vesico vaginal fistulas were treated last month.  Because females have babies at such young ages, their pelvic areas are too small for normal delivery.  Most give birth in the bush. Cesarean deliveries are non-existent. Many die. Others that survive typically sustain damage that results in constant urine leakage.  Because of the odor, they are shunned.  The fistula repair is a life-changing procedure for these women, but what an arena for surgery to take place.  

 

I spent the rest of the morning at the Abukloi School.  This was the first day of the term. Because of the unrest, only half the students were present. If calm continues, everyone should return by the end of the week.  I will be on hand every morning between 10:30 and 11:30 to meet with students and teachers.  Justin is scheduling meetings with various community committees and advisory groups.  

 

Oh, the heat!  It’s just draining! After being out in the hottest part of the day, I drank a bottle of water, went to bed with my battery-operated fan and slept. I better understand siestas after spending time in South Sudan.

 

I had hoped for a swim later today, but Justin had a soccer game.  Maybe tomorrow.

 

I apologize for the lack of pictures.  I’m having difficulty with Internet. As soon as I’m able to get a reliable connection, I’ll try to catch up on the pictures.

 

Blessings,

Mama Ellen

Saturday and Sunday 9/13-14

(This email has been transcribed from a voicemail. Please excuse errors. CG)

Saturday pm, September 13, 2014

 

It’s such a comfortable feeling to have spent enough time in another country to be able to wander around freely, not needing a guide and dropping in on friends from previous visits.

 

Yesterday, late afternoon, I walked next door to the Pan Ngoth Compound, Missionary Charity Sisters, expecting to see Sister Ann Mario, as I had done on previous visits to Rumbek. Imagine my disappointment that she had been transferred to Nairobi. I wish her well.

 

A bit farther around the corner, I did find Katarina at home in her NGO(?)  from Italy - a Roman Catholic nun. I don't even know her last name, but we enjoy a cup of tea once a year.  Blessings on your work, Katarina.

 

Terrific chapatti for dinner tonight!

 

Sunday, September 14, 2014

 

Up early for 8:30 service at ECS. There has been unrest in Rumbek of late – fighting, shooting and killing of innocent people.  The service today – music, Scripture, liturgy and sermon was all about peace, brotherly love and forgiveness. The people of South Sudan are weary of violence and wondering when it will ever end so they can live in peace without fear.  

 

The sermon was interrupted midway when a man walked in off the street, proceeded to one of (the chairs?) and demanded money. Various people handed over small bills as others tried to coax him away. Finally he left, and the sermon continued.

 

I had taken a boda boda to ECS earlier; and when the service was over, I walked back to the road to flag another ride, calling out, “Boda boda!”  As motorbikes passed, one fella stopped and said, “Madame, I am not boda boda, but I will assist you.” It turns out he was Andrew, with some connection to Abukloi School.

 

Can you see God’s prevenient grace, just in the past 24 hours?

1.          The young man who assisted me at the Juba airport,
2.          Marco Marjon, who just happened to be at the Rumbek Airport when I landed, and
3.          Andrew, riding past ECS just as the service ended.

 

I spent an hour or so at the market this afternoon – batteries, washcloths, extra towels, etc.  Pan Ngoth doesn’t provide washcloths, and one towel per guest is doled out once at the beginning of the stay.  I also bought a new pillow. The one I had rested on last night was old, hard and extremely uncomfortable. My neck hurt all night, and I got very little sleep. The new one is a little better.

 

No chapatti in 24 hours! I've been assured it will be served tomorrow.

 

Blessings,

Mama Ellen

Saturday, September 13

(This text was transcribed from Ellen's phone message. The recorded sound was somewhat distorted so parts of this message were difficult to understand. I apologize for any errors. CG)
 

I had breakfast at the James Hotel, again. It’s just too difficult to get to CCC early in the morning, then back to the Guest House to collect luggage, and on to the airport.

 

I’d been told to check in for my flight to Rumbek at 9:00 am, but Edison and I left at 8:30. There was a queue outside the terminals designated for Rumbek, so I got in line. 35 minutes later, I began to inquire about check-in status. 9:45 am, I was still standing in line. I stopped one very tall young man, who decided to take me under his wing. It was understood that he would expect some monetary reward in return, which, at this point, I was happy to provide.

 

Leaving the queue, I followed the tall man into the terminal and stood where he indicated. 10:00 am, he took my passport and ticket and checked me in. I followed him to baggage check, and we watched as my bag was weighed, x-rayed, placed on the conveyor and rolled out the window. Ten South Sudanese pounds later, I was checked-in, and he was on his way.  Money well spent!

 

Noon lift-off on Push(?) Air – not exactly the Cadillac of air travel but safe and reliable.

 

After landing at the Rumbek Airport, I ran into Marco Marjon of Rumbek University, who arranged with a colleague to take me to Plangor -  and in an air-conditioned car, no less – where I am settled into a nice, (indiscernible description) room with bath.

 

This is an official visit for Abukloi, my NGO. I have met with the in-country director, and we planned(?) the itinerary for the next ten days - contacts, meetings and travel. There’s a lot to be done.

 

I’m looking forward to church tomorrow at the ECS (Episcopal Church of Sudan) and then on to the market.

 

Hope all is well.

 

Mama Ellen

September 12 - Part 2

My challenge for today was two-fold:  change American dollars into South Sudanese pounds (easily accomplished), and try and switch providers for my phone so I can use it here for the next 10 weeks.  Four hours later - mission accomplished - but what an ordeal!

My driver, Edison, took me to the Vivacell corporate office where two employees tried every trick in their arsenal of options to no avail.  It seemed we needed to drive over to Juba Town and locate someone named "Abdullah," who operated a store that sold bottled water, and he should be able to help us.  Abdullah was stymied, as well, but had a friend he recommended.  The friend was called who agreed to come right over.  Thirty minutes later said friend was contacted again - this time he really was on the way.  

Meanwhile, Edison and I watched as a steady stream of customers came and went - precious bottles of water in hand.  We drank a couple ourselves.

Friend finally arrived, but was no more help than the first three gentlemen.  But if we would follow him to the establishment of Yagoub - just down the street - he was certain we would find success - and we  did!  I now have a working South Sudan phone #.  If anyone needs/desires the #, call Ned.

I have ticket in hand for my flight to Rumbek tomorrow morning.  Lots to do in ten days for the Abukloi NGO.  I've been warned that I'll need to be on my "A game."  No pressure...

I'm really bummed about one thing.  Dr. Mac Brown, retired professor of early childhood education, gave me four sets of four "Big Books" to use while I am in South Sudan in teaching reading to children at Terekeka, and to pass around in Juba and Rumbek.  When I opened my checked luggage, only one set was there.  I am relieved to have still have one set, but disappointed and aggravated that these teaching tools were pilfered.  

Mama Ellen

Ellen's Trip to Rumbek: September 12, 2014 - Part 1

There is nothing that says, "Welcome to Africa," as effectively as chapati and greens!  This round, flat, fried bread - hot off the griddle - is "to die for" - and the perfect accompaniment to African greens.  I would say chapti is the equivalent of hot corn bread - dripping with butter - in the deep South.  There was also chicken stewed in savory broth and rice for dinner last night - but my focus was chapati and greens!

I slept well after no sleep in 48 hours.  My queen-sized bed at the CCC Guest House has a new mattress - luxuriously comfortable!  Encased in a mosquito net, my laundry spread over the top to dry, I was protected and comfortable.  No need for as much as a sheet, but with windows open and good screens, it wasn't bad at all.  

I awoke at 5:00 to roosters crowing, and enjoyed the early morning quiet before generators start their necessary racket.  Lights and water for showers depend on the noisy generators, so until they are turned on, there's no need for me to get up as I can't do a thing .

At 8:00 a.m. I walked just up the street to the James Hotel, one of the new, luxury "home away from home" options in Juba.  In air-conditioned comfort, I enjoyed the breakfast buffet - Spanish, omelet, link sausage, stewed plantain, crepes, mixed vegetables, and wonderful African tea.  There was also fresh fruit ( I took a banana for later) fried chicken, and other foods I didn't recognize.  

Curious about this new hotel, I was given permission to wander around.  The James is five stories -with elevators - built around an open courtyard.  Each room has a balcony.  The fifth floor is a complete open-air bar and restaurant called the Terrace Lounge with the most amazing view.  Never having been up this high in Juba, I had no idea the distant vista could be so lovely.  It actually took my breath!  Rooms run from $165 - $180 American D, and you would not be disappointed in the amenities offered at the James!

I could have joined Cathy Groenendijk at CCC for breakfast, but two things were holding me back:  1) I wasn't sure about the time breakfast was served, and 2) there is the problem is "getting there."  The CCC Guest House is on the other side of a very busy, conjested, "take hour life in your hands," no traffic lights or stop signs and  no rules city block - from the main facility where the girls live and where I stayed last year.

I will take a boda boda in Juba only if a CCC guard chooses the driver, negotiates the price, and puts the fear of the Almighty in him of anything happens to me along the way.  Juba isn't Rumbek or Yei!  There is a back way in, but - if anything - it's more dangerous for me than the way I just described.  It's necessary to descend a steep, rock-strewn path into a gulley, ford a small, shallow "river" stepping on stones, then climb up the other side.  And folks, I'm not going to do it!  I'll take my chances with the boda boda - it's more fun!

Mama Ellen

Long Road to Juba

I spent last night in the extended cab of a Toyota pickup truck in the bush of Gulu with Justin, Moses, a mother and child with malaria and two chickens. About a dozen others were sleeping on tarps under an abandoned truck. It smelled of urine. I was not sure if it was the baby or the chickens. Let me explain.

My flight back to the US leaves Juba on Sunday so I needed to get from Rumbek to Juba. This is a quick 60 minute flight but no planes were flying. Kush Air was out with mechanical problems. Apparently, the flight I caught two weeks ago was their last one to Rumbek for awhile. South Supreme was pulled to run humanitarian aid. So my only alternative was to go by land. Moses and Justin secured a truck and driver. They know how packed these vehicles can be so they purchased all the space inside the extended cab (4 total counting the driver rather than the normal 5-6). This was about the same price as 3 plane tickets. So Thursday morning about 7:30 the truck came to Pan Dor to pick me up.

The first indication of potential issues was the driver looking under the hood. Then we picked up Moses and then about 10 other people who climbed in the back with our luggage. As you are probably aware an extended cab means a shorter bed of the truck. The driver stopped to pick up a tarp and spare tire. We got gas and off we went. (I will try to get a picture or two to Mary to include in this post). The road between Rumbek and Juba is legendary. It is a dirt road traveled by the huge trucks driven by the UN, oil tankers, etc. People at Pan Dor were giving me their "blessings" and that look people give when they feel for you.

We made several stops including the stop at the driver's family to pick up more people, a big trunk, bee hive in a 5 gallon container and two chickens. At this point I think we had 17 total people bounding along in this Toyota truck. We knew there were mechanical problems because we could hear them. The conditions of the road only made it worse. Twice we all got out of the truck and it went through the bush (side fields) rather than the road. After our stop for lunch there were complaints about the back being so crowded. A woman with a toddler who has malaria asked if she could ride in the cab with us - of course. I was already feeling bad about being inside with the rest crowded in the back. When it rained they put the tarp over their heads and we just kept going.

The windows were electric but were out of their tracks so did not work. At first they were all opened - too much when it rained - then only one was open part way. The sweat was running off my chin but I just kept thinking about the men, women, and children in the back and was grateful. After limping along into the dark (it gets dark around 7:00) we finally stopped - could not go any further with whatever was the issue with the right front tire/wheel. We were in the middle of nowhere, a couple thatched roof houses and one 6X6 "shop" that sold water and crackers. We had the spare tire but could not find a jack. Our phones did not work but some people picked up along the way had phone service because they were more local to where we were. I hope I am making sense. Anyway, we got a truck to come with a jack. Every male over 10 was looking at the situation. The decision was that we could not repair this without parts so the guy with the jack left. Now some phone calls were made to try to get us to the hotel where we were to have spent the night. But we could not locate any such possibility so we settled down for the night.

Thus my story of how I spent last night in a Toyota pickup truck with Justin, Moses, mother, child with malaria and 2 chickens. BTW, eventually the mother and child got out and slept on the ground with the others. The urine smell was the chickens.

The Rest of The Story. The next morning we were able to secure boda bodas which first took the local people to their destination which was just the next town. Then they came back to get more of us (I think 6). I got to ride my own which I greatly appreciated. It was about an hour on the boda boda to get to the "Express Bus". I had seen these buses all over South Sudan always packed to the gills with people and items stacked 6-10 feet on the roof. I often thought, "I am glad I do not have to ride in one of those." Well, here I come!

We boarded around 1:00 and spent the next 7 hours on more of those orange rutted roads. I was next to the window which means I had lots of air moving so I did not get hot. It also meant I got my left arm sun burned and orange dust from head to toe. More on that in a bit. Meanwhile, about an hour short of Juba as we traveling as fast as the road conditions allowed (I would guess an average of 20 miles/hour) the right front just collapsed on to the tire. I am guessing it has something to do with tie rods or suspension but car mechanics are not my strong points. Because of the conflict, Juba has a curfew at 9:00. If we did not get past the check point by 9:00 we would have to sleep along the road again. Everyone knew our options including the driver. He just kept inching along. You could hear the wheel well rubbing on the tire. At one point the "express bus" just stopped in a hole. The abrupt stop pushed my shin into the seat in front of me (think sardines). I thought, "that's going to leave a mark". It did. But finally we got past the check point around 8:00 and started our drive into Juba.

Meanwhile, Moses now had phone service so he made a phone call for a car to pick us up. It came quickly. Our bus stopped and we unloaded our luggage from the top and put it in the Land Rover. Within a few miles we were on the USAID road - real paved road! There were several stops to let people off, visit Jacob, etc. but I finally got to the Amarat Classic Hotel around 9:30. I was covered in orange dust. My hair was sp thick with it I could not put my fingers into my hair. From head to toe I was covered. So I just got into the shower with my clothes on and kept washing. I have a hand brush and soap just kept scrubbing. As we had been approaching Juba limping along on 3 paws, I saw the first star. "Star of wonder, star of might," I thought, "first star I see tonight. I wish I may. I wish I might stay at Amarat tonight." I called Bob after a quick bite to eat, climbed into bed, and thanked God for the journey.

 Tis' grace has brought me safe thus far and grace will bring me home.

Sunday, June 22

I have not been able to blog for several days and Bev is helping me with this one.  Let me explain.  There are 2 internet cafes here but they have been down the whole time I have been here.  They are waiting for a man to come from Juba to repair the problem.  However, the man from Juba cannot get here because the airlines are having trouble.  One of them, Kush Air, is not running at all.  It has something to do with tires and mechanical issues.  South Supreme is the other one and it is running about 1/3 of its normal schedule.  So the man from Juba has not been able to get here.

 

Now, this could create a problem for me getting to Juba so I can fly home next Sunday.  Fortunately, our director Justin has contacts in many places including the airlines.  Instead of trying to fly back on Saturday we are going on Wednesday.  Many people are trying to book tickets for that flight so this afternoon (Sunday) he is at the Supreme office securing seats for us.  Please pray God provides a way for me to get to Juba before my flight home leaves Sunday.

 

Today I went to two worship services, Episcopal in English and Anglican in Dinka.  The worship here is beautiful.  I always get so full.  The universal and eternal nature of our faith is so clear and powerful. We are part of an incredible "body".

 

Last night Justin and I met with our Advisory Council.  They are some of the officials in the community who can advise the US Abukloi Board on many things.  I was nervous about this meeting.  Sometimes I really feel my "foreignness" here.  I don't want anything I do or fail to do to offend or confuse people.  But the meeting could not have been any better, well, maybe if we had had perfect attendance, but I ask too much.

I sat with the lone woman on the Council.  She works for the government in wildlife and fisheries, married with 3 children, about 44 years old.  She had spent most of the day at an organizing event to empower women.  As you can guess, I really liked her!

 

Anyway, her suggestion for the agricultural project in Akuac (where we have a well and are repairing the fence) is to have the women do this as a vegetable garden and then sale their produce at the market.  The men agreed that could work very well.  She said she would help organize them if that were needed.

I am so glad this is a possibility.  My mother gave me $1,000 to take with me to feed the people here.  She will be so happy to think that she has helped women  entrepreneurs as well as fed the people.

For those of you who are giving $35/month to Abukloi, thank you.  It is making a difference in the lives of many people and families.  If you would be able and interested in participating in this easy way to support the projects here just visit the website www.abukloi.org

Rain and Conflict

It rained hard last night much of the night and drizzled into the morning. These are some of the things here that are impacted by rain. Nearly half of the students were absent. Some of them walk 90 minutes or more to get to school. It is not good to do that in the rain. The roads are terrible on a good day but after a rain...so the trip to school and back on a boda boda was challenging. I could exhale when we finally arrived back at Pan Dor.

The landing strip at the airport in Rumbek is dirt so most planes did not fly today. We visited a farm and gardens at a local school this evening so my sandals are a tiny bit muddy! This is the rainy season so this happens often!

We are conducting a health education assessment with the students. It takes time as we are doing this one-on-one. When we ask what are the health concerns of the community nearly everyone lists "conflict, tribal fighting, hostility" as the #1 concern. Violence against girls has been an issue in South Sudan for many years but this violence is against young men. Some of them who live in the villages around town walk to town in the evening and sleep there so no one will come to their home in the village and take them to kill them. We have members of the competing tribes in our school but I do not believe there will be any problems. Not everyone is involved in this, just a few, much like gangs and such in the States.

I know some of you have been hearing about the conflict here so I wanted you to hear more from a very local viewpoint. Please know that I have never felt in danger here - well maybe on the boda boda! I have important meetings this weekend with community leaders. Please be in prayer for those. In case you didn't know, my luggage arrived on Wednesday.

Good Hump Day

Today is Wednesday, Hump Day for the week and for my trip. It has been a good day. My luggage came and everything seemed to be there! This may be the last trip for the larger suitcase as it has holes in the bottom.

Today was spent primarily on agriculture issues. This is one of the few times to be glad I was raised on a farm - something I loathed as a teen. We visited the property Abukloi owns in Akuac. The fence that once protected most of the property has just a few sections still standing. Two men are digging out the former concrete foundations of the posts with nothing but (not sure of the name) metal pole, sharp at one end and their hands. It is hot dirty, work and there are about 150 poles!! Some women and children were cutting down small trees and bushes with a hatchet and slicer. Again, very hard work. We will buy hand tools to work the soil but it is too big, about 5 acres is my estimate, to do by hand so an ox and cow will likely be hired. If we had a bulldozer and chainsaw we could clear this property in a day but that is not to be our story. I also met a successful local farmer and saw one of his farms. It is not like one in the US but it produces food. This is rainy season and planting season so the property is in different stages. There are 2-3 growing seasons depending upon the crop.

I got a little sun burned today riding the boda boda but I have sunblock in my newly arrived luggage. Tomorrow I will definitely apply some. Many of the children in the communities outside of town see white people very seldom so when they see you they shout, "White person!". Of course, in their native Dinka, not English. Because I do not ride the motor bike side saddle as is custom here for women, I also have women shout in Dinka, "why are you riding like a man?" I want to respond, "So I won't fall off!"

Tomorrow I start the health survey with the students. It should likely take more than a day to get to all students, even with help from Moses (one of the Lost Boys related to Angelo currently in Rumbek). The surveys were in the luggage so I could not start them until the luggage came. There was a workshop held here at Pan Dor today so Mariam and her crew fed about 90 people. That is quite a feat with charcoal fire but they just take it all in stride. There topic was empowerment of women. It is interesting reading their newsprint. I have been reading a book about the Virginia Company at James Town. The book describes how the women felt about wearing the same worn out clothes day after day, wash after wash. Not to be too personal, but last night when I was washing out my one pair of undergarments I said out loud, "I am no better than the James Town settlers"! Today I celebrate more clothes!

Tuesday of Week Two

Good morning.
 I have learned that the internet seems to work best in the morning when there are fewer people using it. I also discovered that my sim card needed to be re-registered so I am using Director Justin's sim card - thanks, Justin.

Yesterday I spent time with the students. First I met with the prefects, the elected leaders of the students. They do not have president, vice president, secretary but head boy and head girl, prefect of academics, room monitor, sports prefect, etc. It works well and they are proud of their organization. A people who have been colonized and then run by a military dictator have a strong appreciation for democracy and transparency.

Before the students had met with me they had met with the entire student body. While they had a letter prepared for me to give to the Abukloi Board they were not going to read it to me until we gathered in assembly with everyone. So we all crowded together in one classroom and the letter was read. At the end of the assembly they all stood and sang their national anthem so I could video them - very powerful!

I had told them last week that I needed to know what was going well and what they still needed. These needs were to be prioritized. They followed instructions. The first priority was a boarding school. I learned more about why that is. Providing a boarding school is primarily for the girls. They have trouble excelling at school because of their responsibilities at home. It causes them to miss school and not be able to do their homework. Of course, boarding schools are very expensive. I hope to address the families of the students next week and will talk to them about encouraging their girls (daughters, wives, sisters) by reducing the work required of them so they can learn.

The second priority included computers and science lab equipment. I believe we can achieve that.

Tomorrow marks 1 full week in Rumbek, 1 full week without any luggage. It is amazing how you can survive with just the clothes on your back (plus a little help from Mariam who runs Pan Dor). Today I meet with the teachers to get their priorities and strategic plan. We also hope to visit the agriculture department about getting free seeds and fruit trees for our gardens.

Things are going well. I hear reports of violence among the people, very sad. As the Psalmist wrote, "but it does not come near my door" Thank you for your prayers and keep them coming, especially for the people of South Sudan. The are so grieved by the violence of their own people against each other. It is a very few but it holds back the whole.

lost Luggage and Found School

Thursday 6/12/14
I have been without internet for several days so have a bit to catch up on. I will do it quickly as I don't know how long my internet connection will last.

I was to leave Juba on Tuesday but the flight was canceled so I had to go back to the hotel for another night and then fly on Wednesday. That happened but my luggage ended up in Wau (look at the map, no where near). So it is to arrive Saturday - we shall see.... In the meantime, I am wearing clothes Bev left last year. The woman, Mariam, who operates Pan Dor, the Catholic boarding ministry, had a skirt and top that Bev gave to her. I still need to buy tooth brush and tooth paste and deoderant. This is not a good place to be without it. I was feeling frustrated in that it had taken me 4 days of the 21 just to get to Rumbek but today as I was riding the motor bike to the school, it felt wonderful. And I can't describe how amazing the school is. 

There were nearly 90 students at their desks looking very smart in the new uniforms. The whole place was peaceful and in order. Great teaching and learning was happening. It just thrilled me to see what God is doing! Justin, the Director of Abukloi, and I spent all morning there. We spoke with the Head Teacher about the purpose of my visit so he would be advised of how this will impact the school schedule. The students are having a meeting on Friday after school and they want me to come. There is an assembly on Friday morning and I will attend that as well. Nearly all of the students Bev and I had in the fall are back - it was wonderful to see all of them. Everyone asked about Teacher Beverly. Justin is making plans to meet with many people. 

We will probably rent a boda boda (motor bike) as it will be cheaper than renting one for every trip. The custom here is for women to ride side saddle. After 4 months of PT from shoulder surgery I did not ride that way and Justin advised the drivers to drive VERY slow. Bev and Ellen will be proud! I am feeling energized and grateful (and praying my luggage comes Saturday:)) Thanks for the prayers and keep them coming. Marg

Juba Another Day

Today was definitely a plan B day! I got up at 6:15, showered, dressed, had breakfast, checked out, and was at the airport by 7:30. The ticket said to be there at 7:00 so I was a little nervous about arriving late but everybody at the hotel assured me it was not a problem. That was more correct than even they knew. I had to stay in the outside waiting area because my flight was not scheduled to leave until noon. So I watched people, texted Justin, and read. Around 10:00 I went to the entrance to the terminal and was told my flight had been rescheduled for TOMORROW! As Angelo would say, "Welcome to South Sudan." I was about to text Justin when he texted me to tell me the flight had been cancelled. So I called the hotel to send a driver. He came and I returned to the hotel. Even though they have internet service with a cable hook up in the room there was no internet until now (dark at around 7:15). So I filled my time with other things, including a nice long nap. Having people all around fully engaged in conversation but myself speaking only when necessary, is like being on a silent retreat at Richmond Hill. This wasn't planned but I turned this whole trip over to God many times (you know how we turn it over and then take it back -thus the reason for turning it over many times) so just surrendered this day of silent retreat as well. Tomorrow I try again to get to Rumbek, God willing. I mentioned yesterday that I would share costs so those of you considering a trip here will know what to expect. Amarat Classic Hotel, where I am staying here in Juba, is $120/night and that includes shuttle to and from the airport, breakfast, dinner, and one bottle of water. I tip the driver about 10SSP or around $2.50. I also purchased minutes for the phone as I already had the sim card for Africa. The minutes are cheap. I would suggest a group who comes might want to share phones, sim cards, and minutes. I am not doing this but I believe you can purchase a Zain sim card for your smart phone and use it much like you do at home for phone, text, internet, etc. I would guess the internet part will work best at night, possibly only at night. I have a Zain modum that I use with my netbook. It works only after dark. It is the rainy season here so the ground is always wet, muddy, lots of puddles. Today it did not rain hard like it did yesterday but it did drizzle much of the day with some nice sun mid-afternoon. It got warm but not uncomfortable (of course, I was in my air-conditioned room much of the afternoon!). I skipped lunch today (not included in the package) so I am hungry now and going to dinner. Keep up the prayers!

I am now in Juba, the capital of South Sudan. The only way to Rumbek, my final destination, in this rainy season is by air and even it can be a little difficult because the runway is mud/clay. There are only two of those flights from Juba to Rumbek each week - Tuesday and Saturday. So leaving Dulles on Sunday morning brings me to Juba on Monday allowing the early morning flight to Rumbek on Tuesday. Because some of you reading this are considering making this trip yourself I will share a little bit about the costs along the way and some of the travel details (like I just did). The flight from Dulles (Washington, DC) to Addis Ababa in Ethiopia is 12.5 hours. The flight from Addis Ababa was 2 hours. But the holdover between those two flights was 8 hours! Basically it take 2-3 days to get to Rumbek (Sunday to Tuesday or Thursday to Saturday). I flew Ethiopian Air but there are other airlines that also fly to Juba, South Sudan. I just prefer Ethiopian Air because it does not require an overnight stop in Nirobi. It also is a pretty good international airline. I believe some of the other airlines are a bit less expensive. My flight from Dulles to Juba was a little over $1900 round trip. The flight from Juba to Rumbek can only be purchased at one of those two airports. I had our Director arrange for that as the flights are generally full so need to be purchased several days out. He had his brother bring my ticket to me at the hotel tonight here in Juba. If you were to come, we would make similar arrangements. That's it for now. I will try to write more tomorrow once I am actually in Rumbek. But I have heard from our Director (Justin) that the internet in Rumbek has been very poor. So we will see. Thanks for all your prayers - they got me this far!

Well, here I go again - back to South Sudan!
This time Bev is not going due to health issues of her own and in her family. So I am going solo this time. But going solo is not the only difference. I will be going for just three weeks, not 2-3 months. Also, I will not be starting a school, but checking on the school and hopefully starting several other initiatives. Much has happened since my last post, November, 2013.

Let me bring you up to date quickly: The teachers who were hired last fall completed the pre-session in early December. They are the same teachers who started the school officially in February, 2014. That school is going strong with nearly 100 "9th grade" students. They have completed their first term and will be back in session next week, just in time for my arrival. School uniforms have been purchased and the students will be wearing them proudly. Pictures will follow in a later blog.

Conflict within South Sudan started in December 2013 and continues to a lesser degree in some areas of the nation. Many of the IDPs (Internally Displaced Persons) have been resettled in the Rumbek area. The conflict and the displacement of nearly a million people has led to food shortages. That situation is predicted to become a crisis within 6-10 months.

One of my goals this trip is to help the Community Committee develop a small farm on the 2 acres around our bore hole (well). We will need to finish the fence, secure hand tools and seeds, prepared the land, and plant the seeds. June is a good time to plant because of the rain. With the pending food shortage, the community is very excited about this experiment in agriculture. Once we work out the details on this smaller plot we hope to develop a much larger piece of property. Agriculture is one of the subjects in the national syllabus so this farm will be worked by both the community and our students.

I fly out of Dulles Sunday morning, June 8. Please keep me in your prayers. I will write more once I am in Rumbke, internet service allowing.

Marg Kutz